Thanks Mike.  My RSA is sufficiently lax (or clueless) that adding a sprit 
doesn’t change a boat’s rating.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Jul 11, 2022, at 6:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Randy
>  
> Check with your local PHRF authority (assume you already have).  In many 
> areas adding a bowsprit to a boat to tack your asym spin affects rating.  If 
> doing this and also carrying a symmetric spin and pole can be a penalty 
> adjustment (faster rating).  If only the asym and no spin may actually be in 
> your favour
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
>  
>  
> From: StrightR--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
> Sent: July 11, 2022 6:02 AM
> To: 'Randy Stafford via CnC-List' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: cnc-l...@cnc-list.co <mailto:cnc-l...@cnc-list.co>; strig...@eastlink.ca 
> <mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca>
> Subject: Stus-List Asym Rigging and Trim
>  
> Hi Randy comments below:
>  
> 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, 
> side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to 
> run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise. 
>  My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I’ve repurposed 
> a little-used genoa sheet.  I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for 
> a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line.  Am 
> I wrong? 
>  
> Might be bigger diameter than you need if you were using high tech line but 
> will work.  Bigger lines create more of a tripping hazard on the foredeck.  
> We keep our tackline close to the deck to prevent it from becoming a tripping 
> hazard
>  
> 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the 
> symmetrical, or farther forward?  For the symmetrical turning blocks I use 
> snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces.
>  
> If the A2 was cut for the extended pole length the turning blocks will likely 
> need to be further aft than the spin sheets.  Probably start out in the same 
> place as it sounds like you are as far aft as you can be.  We use tweakers 
> depending on how deep you are sailing the sheets may need to be adjusted to 
> trim the sail and adjust the leech.
>  
> 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from?  My main competitor leads his 
> asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the 
> trimmer can see the whole sail.
>  
> High side cabin top, avoid the A2 sheet getting tangled with the main sheet.
>  
> 4. When and how much to ease the tack line?  By default I assume it’s 
> tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, 
> but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions?
>  
> You will need to experiment with how much to ease the tack line and it will 
> depend upon wind strength and how deep you are sailing.  Generally downwind  
> if the tack line falls off to leeward you will likely need to tighten it, if 
> it rotates to windward that is golden.  Ours normally eased a few feet 
> downwind. Reaching likely as tight as you can get it unless it is really 
> light.
>  
> Thanks in advance for any wisdom you might share.
>  
> Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, 
> because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme 
> (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas.
>  
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C&C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
>  
> Rod Stright
> C&C 99 Halifax

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