Thanks Mike. My RSA is sufficiently lax (or clueless) that adding a sprit doesn’t change a boat’s rating.
Cheers, Randy > On Jul 11, 2022, at 6:41 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > Hi Randy > > Check with your local PHRF authority (assume you already have). In many > areas adding a bowsprit to a boat to tack your asym spin affects rating. If > doing this and also carrying a symmetric spin and pole can be a penalty > adjustment (faster rating). If only the asym and no spin may actually be in > your favour > > Mike Hoyt > Persistence > Halifax, NS > > > From: StrightR--- via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> > Sent: July 11, 2022 6:02 AM > To: 'Randy Stafford via CnC-List' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> > Cc: cnc-l...@cnc-list.co <mailto:cnc-l...@cnc-list.co>; strig...@eastlink.ca > <mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca> > Subject: Stus-List Asym Rigging and Trim > > Hi Randy comments below: > > 1. Leading the tack line - I’m repurposing the foredeck padeye and block, > side-deck fairleads, and cabin-side cam cleat for my former pole down line to > run the asym tack line, which of course goes through the bowsprit lengthwise. > My pole down line is too short to be the asym tack line, so I’ve repurposed > a little-used genoa sheet. I figure if the deck hardware was sufficient for > a symmetrical pole down line, it ought to suffice for an asym tack line. Am > I wrong? > > Might be bigger diameter than you need if you were using high tech line but > will work. Bigger lines create more of a tripping hazard on the foredeck. > We keep our tackline close to the deck to prevent it from becoming a tripping > hazard > > 2. Where to put the turning blocks for the asym sheets: same place as for the > symmetrical, or farther forward? For the symmetrical turning blocks I use > snatch blocks at the stern pulpit braces. > > If the A2 was cut for the extended pole length the turning blocks will likely > need to be further aft than the spin sheets. Probably start out in the same > place as it sounds like you are as far aft as you can be. We use tweakers > depending on how deep you are sailing the sheets may need to be adjusted to > trim the sail and adjust the leech. > > 3. What winch to lead to / where to trim from? My main competitor leads his > asym sheets to cabintop winches, and trims from the windward side deck so the > trimmer can see the whole sail. > > High side cabin top, avoid the A2 sheet getting tangled with the main sheet. > > 4. When and how much to ease the tack line? By default I assume it’s > tensioned so that the aysm’s tack is at the bowsprit and the luff is taut, > but it can be eased - how much, and under what conditions? > > You will need to experiment with how much to ease the tack line and it will > depend upon wind strength and how deep you are sailing. Generally downwind > if the tack line falls off to leeward you will likely need to tighten it, if > it rotates to windward that is golden. Ours normally eased a few feet > downwind. Reaching likely as tight as you can get it unless it is really > light. > > Thanks in advance for any wisdom you might share. > > Fun fact: the sail is black, with a logo of an M67 grenade on both sides, > because of the etymology of my boat’s name, and because of her color scheme > (red topsides, white deck and cabintop, black canvas. > > Cheers, > Randy Stafford > SV Grenadine > C&C 30 MK I #79 > Ken Caryl, CO > > Rod Stright > C&C 99 Halifax
