You might try stainless lock wire and wrapping with self-amalgamating tape in place of cotter pins and pipe covers. No place for spiders to hide.
Barry McKee C&C 29 Mk I “Discovery II” Burlington, ON From: John Read via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: 19-Apr-22 11:05 AM To: nausetbe...@optonline.net; 'Stus-List' Cc: 'Della Barba, Joe'; John Read Subject: Stus-List Re: Now Rod Rigging > Rigging Grease Green waterproof grease. Lubrimatic wheel bearing grease marine waterproof. Does not create a oil sheen. Wipe off excess after rig is tightened. No galling of threads in turnbuckles. No issues with dust dirt or salt. I use PVC pipe to cover turnbuckles and cotter pins John Read From: nausetbe...@optonline.net [mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net] Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2022 9:53 AM To: 'Stus-List' Cc: 'Della Barba, Joe'; 'John Read' Subject: RE: Stus-List Re: Now Rod Rigging > Rigging Grease John, What do you use for grease on the turnbuckles? Have heard people recommend Lanocote, and have used that in the past. Seems like any grease has the tendency to attract dust / dirt / salt etc. Thanks, Brian From: John Read via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2022 9:24 AM To: 'Stus-List' <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: 'Della Barba, Joe' <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>; John Read <johnprea...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Re: Now Rod Rigging FWIW still have original rod rigging on a now 40 year old boat. Had visually inspected over the winter by a rigger and everything appears fine. Boat spent first 17 years in fresh water, balance in salt here in CT. Rig taken down every winter. Turnbuckles and heads greased every spring. John Read Legacy III 1982 C&C 34 Noank, CT From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 10:41 AM To: Stus-List Cc: Della Barba, Joe Subject: Stus-List Now Rod Rigging This is really something to think about when boat shopping. For the C&C 40 that I looked at and passed on because of hard grounding damage, the local riggers basically would not inspect the rig at all. They all told me more or less “it’s old, it needs replacing, we’ll probably damage fittings we can’t buy anymore if we try and get it apart” Joe From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 10:26 AM To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - Herrington Harbor, area Riggers Just replaced 30 year old wire on my Hylas. Everything still looked great until we removed the furler drum. There was a LOT of corrosion under the furler. I've been told that for salt water boats the rod needs to be inspected and reheaded every 10 years and wire should be replaced at ten years (although few people do it) Joel On Mon, Apr 18, 2022 at 10:22 AM MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: Sort of. I sailed my own boat for 30 years before I replaced the rod rigging. I still have the original backstay which I re-headed. The cost of doing an inspection on rod is prohibitively expensive. In my opinion it is more cost effective to replace it rather than pay to have it inspected. In general it is best ro replace all rigging at the 15-20 year mark depending on where and how the boat was sailed. The local USCG Marine inspectors want rod rigging at the 10 year mark for commercial boats. Were I in Brian’s shoes I’d buy the boat and sail it for a season or two and then decide what to do with it. Just my opinion. Sail safe, Mike Virginia Lee 93295 1978 C&C 36 CB Virginia Beach, VA On Apr 18, 2022, at 9:41 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: So basically any boat with rod rigging older than 2002 would need all new standing rigging? Joe Coquina
