Nathan, I second Bill's post, that is awesome work!
Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1983 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4;
Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255
-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Post via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Nathan Post <nathan8...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 26, 2021 10:24 am
Subject: Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core
I didn't keep track of hours. The deck repair was a weeks or two of evenings
and weekends. Then another two weeks of sanding, prepping and painting and more
time for replacing the windows and reinstalling all the hardware and life
lines. Including rewiring the mast, adding radar, designing, building and
installing a new bow roller assembly, etc. the whole refit took me about 4
months.
On Thu, Aug 26, 2021, 10:12 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Wow, lookslike you did a great job, looks nice.How longdid it take you to do
that whole operation? Bill ColemanEntrada, Erie, PA From: Nathan Post
viaCnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2021 8:27 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Andy Frame; Nathan Post
Subject: Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core Agreed with others on
not using expanding foam forthis. I personally used balsa wood to replace the
rotted core as it hasthe best strength to weight ratio and is pretty easy to
work with. Thereare structural foams that can be used but most do not have
quite as goodmechanical properties as balsa wood. My other tip is that where
you knowyou will be putting a hole through it can be good to go with solid
laminate inthat area instead so you don't have to carve out the balsa and fill
with epoxylater. Especially at structural points (bulkhead bolts forexample).
When I did this on my C&C 34, I used 1/2" G10plate. Roughen both sides and
bond in place of the balsa. Complete thelamination and painting and then cut
or drill for the fitting. Adds alittle weight and a lot of strength. Some
photos showing what I did to repair the core in my deckin 2020 are here:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8W4AdgmKqKxARvsY7 Theseshow the G10 plates used
where penetrations are made later for thebulkhead attachments and the fan in
the head. I didn't do that around thechain plate and instead just filled an
area with thickened epoxy but onhindsight using G10 there too would have been
better and will avoid the problemhappening again in the future.
Note, in some cases, I rebuilt the deck laminate from scratch and in others
Ilaminated the original back in place and then created a tapered grove
andlaminated the two parts of the top deck back together for strength using
narrowstrips of fiberglass. I used weights to hold the G10 in place while
bonding itwith thickened epoxy to the lower skin but then used a vacuum system
when doingthe larger lamination areas after doing a wet layup. Nathan
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
