Nathan, I second Bill's post, that is awesome work!

Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1983 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 584.4;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Post via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Nathan Post <nathan8...@gmail.com>
Sent: Thu, Aug 26, 2021 10:24 am
Subject: Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core

I didn't keep track of hours.  The deck repair was a weeks or two of evenings 
and weekends. Then another two weeks of sanding, prepping and painting and more 
time for replacing the windows and reinstalling all the hardware and life 
lines.  Including rewiring the mast, adding radar, designing, building and 
installing a new bow roller assembly, etc. the whole refit took me about 4 
months.
On Thu, Aug 26, 2021, 10:12 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Wow, lookslike you did a great job, looks nice.How longdid it take you to do 
that whole operation?  Bill ColemanEntrada, Erie, PA   From: Nathan Post 
viaCnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, August 26, 2021 8:27 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Andy Frame; Nathan Post
Subject: Stus-List Re: Replacing Cabin/Deck Balsa Core Agreed with others on 
not using expanding foam forthis.  I personally used balsa wood to replace the 
rotted core as it hasthe best strength to weight ratio and is pretty easy to 
work with.  Thereare structural foams that can be used but most do not have 
quite as goodmechanical properties as balsa wood.  My other tip is that where 
you knowyou will be putting a hole through it can be good to go with solid 
laminate inthat area instead so you don't have to carve out the balsa and fill 
with epoxylater.  Especially at structural points (bulkhead bolts forexample).  
When I did this on my C&C 34, I used 1/2" G10plate.  Roughen both sides and 
bond in place of the balsa.  Complete thelamination and painting and then cut 
or drill for the fitting.  Adds alittle weight and a lot of strength. Some 
photos showing what I did to repair the core in my deckin 2020 are here: 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/8W4AdgmKqKxARvsY7  Theseshow the G10 plates used 
where penetrations are made later for thebulkhead attachments and the fan in 
the head.  I didn't do that around thechain plate and instead just filled an 
area with thickened epoxy but onhindsight using G10 there too would have been 
better and will avoid the problemhappening again in the future.
Note, in some cases, I rebuilt the deck laminate from scratch and in others 
Ilaminated the original back in place and then created a tapered grove 
andlaminated the two parts of the top deck back together for strength using 
narrowstrips of fiberglass. I used weights to hold the G10 in place while 
bonding itwith thickened epoxy to the lower skin but then used a vacuum system 
when doingthe larger lamination areas after doing a wet layup. Nathan

 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

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