get/borrow a big (200W) soldering iron. I've got one as part of a wood
branding kit, and places that build large cable assemblies would have
one. Maybe stained glass makers.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2021-07-21 12:43 p.m., Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List wrote:
West has a wealth of epoxy-related info. From this page:
www_dot_westsystem_dot_com/instruction-2/epoxy-basics/bonding-fasteners-hardware/
" Removing Epoxied Fasteners
....
Remove a permanently bonded fastener by applying heat to the head of the
fastener with a soldering iron or propane torch. Use a heat shield to protect
the surrounding area. Heat will travel down the fastener, softening the epoxy
in contact with it. At about 120°F the epoxy should soften enough to allow the
fastener to be backed out. Allow more time for heat to travel down longer or
larger diameter fasteners.
"
Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue, Rockport ME
C&C 33-2
adri...@telamontech.com
On Jul 21, 2021, at 10:48 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
To Dwight’s comment, unfortunately no, I can’t just grind it away and ignore
it, I am too Anal.
The head was sticking out a couple inches (with an inch and a half in epoxy), so that is what I was using to unscrew, as well as two lock nuts, so I had two wrenches to unscrew with. Unfortunately, it broke almost flush with the transom underneath the lock nuts. I should have lathered more Vaseline on it. Don’t want to beat on it, as it is really in there, and beating would no doubt break the inner and outer layers away from the foam core, and the backstay is right about there . . .
And thanks for all the suggestions, I have all the left hand drills and easyouts, etc, I understand removing it like that is do-able, I just am to anal to booger it up. That will be my last resort. I know there has to be a way to heat the stud up. If I took a welder down, it would be fairly simple to heat up, those obviously can take a direct short. And I have a half dozen welders, but they are all 3 phase and not easy to drag onto a boat. I was mostly looking for electrical advise. It sounds like the consensus is that this 12V power supply is not something that can take a direct short. If I can’t figure the bolt heating out, I suppose eventually I will have to try the easy out or failing that rout out around the bolt.
Like Old Lodge Skins, I will have to smoke on it till I figure it out. . . .
Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA
From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 20, 2021 6:09 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy
You can probably drive the bolt back through the transom using a hammer or sledge hammer, and then a punch and a hammer. A hard strike should break it free from the epoxy. If it's truly a carriage bolt, you don't want to try to turn it. A carriage bolt has a round head and a square neck.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 2:42 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Can you just grind it away and leave it.
On Tue, Jul 20, 2021 at 3:41 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing out
my transom.
1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely. I did four, three of
them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one thoroughly
enough with the Vaseline.
I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so, it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems *maybe* possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up, like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an option.
But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to go
about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what happens when
I have shorted them out with a wrench –
I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a little
safer.
What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the bolt, and
negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just melt the
insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a factor of the
gauge of the wires?
Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
