80-120 grit sandpaper on a palm sander will take the original molded in nonskid off without a problem. I didn’t use flattener with Awlgrip as the texture knocks down the reflection anyway (50/50 mix of fine/course additive “Griptex”). A painted deck should last fifteen years. I did mine in 2001 and 2017. The nonskid held up fine. It was the faded cabin top and accumulated nicks and scratches that bothered me.
Greg Alimenti Cara Mia C&C 29-1 From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] Sent: Friday, February 26, 2021 2:40 PM To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Ronald B. Frerker <rbfrer...@yahoo.com> Subject: Stus-List Re: Deck painting This brings up a question I've been wondering about: How does one effectively sand non-skid portions of the deck? I can't see how the sandpaper would get into the stipled surface. Or is there an alternative to sandpaper that I'm not aware of? I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding would only knock the tops off the non-skid. What gives the "bite" for the paint to hold in the depressed parts? Ron Wild Cheri C&C 30-1 STL On Friday, February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: I just had my decks painted this year. They painted each part separately. Stripped and sanded everything down. Then masked off the non skid areas to prime and finish the smooth areas before masking off the newly finished areas and addressing the non skid.
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