On mine, they took the gelcoat texture right down. They said it was the only way to guarantee good adhesion. The deck was painted during the POs tenure by roll and tip method and they tried to just scotch pad it, prime and finish but, you could see where the paint was lifting in the lows of the non skid areas. It wasn't bad, you could just see the primer in those areas and they were small and uniform. So, the non skid just appeared to be a different shade of white. Eventually, the whole paintjob was failing. I'd say it lasted 10 to 12 years though. Of course, the downside is that it made the next paintjob (this one) a lot more difficult...
---------- Original Message ---------- From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker" <rbfrer...@yahoo.com> Subject: Stus-List Re: Deck painting Date: Fri, 26 Feb 2021 19:39:51 +0000 (UTC) This brings up a question I've been wondering about: How does one effectively sand non-skid portions of the deck? I can't see how the sandpaper would get into the stipled surface. Or is there an alternative to sandpaper that I'm not aware of?I can scrub with soapy water and power wash, but it seems like sanding would only knock the tops off the non-skid. What gives the "bite" for the paint to hold in the depressed parts?RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL On Friday, February 26, 2021, 04:37:50 AM CST, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: I just had my decks painted this year. They painted each part separately. Stripped and sanded everything down. Then masked off the non skid areas to prime and finish the smooth areas before masking off the newly finished areas and addressing the non skid.
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