Sorry on my 1981 40. Stem head big enough to thread for bolt on attachment. Can be removed for racing etc.
Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. ________________________________ From: David Risch <davidrisc...@msn.com> Sent: Monday, November 30, 2020 5:17:33 PM To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List Re: Anchor roller question I found a basic roller that could lay down on the stem head fitting on my 1981 40 a p Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. ________________________________ From: Nathan Post <nathan8...@gmail.com> Sent: Monday, November 30, 2020 4:32:49 PM To: Stus-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Subject: Stus-List Re: Anchor roller question Hello Peter, I decided to add a roller to my C&C 34 which does not have an integral roller in the original aluminum bow plate and here are some pictures of what I did and some of the installation process: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WiC3GpL1Yu0MU9dC91ghWDLIviFUGjbb?usp=sharing This definitely was not the least expensive approach but I am overall happy with the result. I got the general idea from http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2018/06/stemhead-replacement.html but decided to go with welded and anodized aluminum with SS threaded inserts to keep it light. The original stem fit laterally down around the fiberglass deck at the bow and I thought that might be important to increase the lateral load strength beyond just the bolts which are in a relatively small area. I also wanted to add a tack point for an asymmetrical spin and kept my options open for a second roller or a bowsprit mount later. I had to build up the area under it with filled epoxy to make it flat and cut back the toe rails on each side about 8 inches to incorporate the chalks and give it more distance to resist the roller loads. I also added an extra 1/2" GFRP backing plate under the deck as the original wood one wasn't in great shape and wasn't quite big enough. To design it, I started with wood mock-ups to get the dimensions to fit the existing boat (after removing the existing stem head) and then did the design in onshape. The finished design (which you can copy and modify) is available here https://cad.onshape.com/documents/87319ac0373461e07d9c3465/w/8092d805cb5db461fce8cc09/e/94229b4df81f5f30af53d096 but obviously would need to be modified for a different boat. I bought a Mantus 35lb M2 anchor and the BR1 roller with anchor mate (interestingly this combination doesn't actually work well together as the anchor mate isn't long enough to reach the M2 anchor - I will need to modify for next season with a custom anchor mate part instead that I will probably make out of aluminum and/or starboard. In hindsight, I think I should of gotten the M1 anchor style instead but as we have a lot of weeds in the water in places where we anchor I thought that the M2 might come up cleaner and would also better accommodate a secondary anchor. In hindsight I should have just gone with the M1 which would have fit on the bow roller a bit more securely. All told, this was an expensive project - including shipping the custom stem head ran ~$2800 to have it custom fabricated and then the Mantus parts were another $500 ish on sale if I recall and the chalks were rather pricey too ($80 each?) plus bolts, threaded inserts, epoxy, etc. All in all, it came out nice and seems to work well for the most part so far. Added weight way out in front which isn't ideal for performance, but does make setting and retrieving the anchor a lot easier. A few notes for you: on my 34, the Mantus 35 was probably overkill and might be adequate for your 37. I was tired of struggling to get the previous plow anchor to set, but this setup weighs down the bow quite a bit over the original design. I probably could have gone one size smaller for a primary anchor and perhaps bought one of these to keep in the back as a storm anchor. In any case, I will likely never put a second anchor roller on as it will just put too much weight out there to store a second anchor on the bow. I haven't flown an asymmetric spin yet but I have been told that ideally the attachment point should be set up for a vertically loaded shackle rather than continuing the angle out forward as I did. Anyway, hopefully this gives you some ideas at least. Let me know if you have questions. BTW, if anyone needs an original stem fitting for a C&C 34, I have one available (note, the pin for the forestay is seized in place and will take some work to get out (I just cut the pin on either side of the forestay mount to get it out). Nathan S/V Wisper 1981 C&C 34 Lynn, MA
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