If the exterior frames are in good condition (no kinks, minimal corrosion), 
it’s definitely worth doing. Pull out the grey gasket and the lens just comes 
out. Drill out the rivets, undo the bolts, remove the frames and clean them up. 
You can throw out the interior rings if you decide to fill the gap. Since the 
space in yours is greater than mine was, you might consider epoxying splines of 
appropriate thickness in the gap all around. This will give the consistent 
thickness you want and straight edges as well. Sail batten material stacked to 
be thick enough might be the answer. Clamp them in place so you don’t lose 
them! Use the original lenses as patterns for the new ones. Lexan isn’t great 
in UV, so they sell it with one side treated. Make sure that you install it 
with that side out! You’ll need to obtain new gasket material. I remember a 
post a few months ago where someone had a source for gasket other than buying 
some of the original stuff.

Before reinstalling the frames, you have the opportunity to make the holes 
really nice and neat and paint the areas. When I reinstalled my frames, I 
decided that using screws only along with sealant was strong enough to suit my 
taste, so I have nothing showing on the inside of the boat. You could 
through-bolt the corners and maybe the center holes if you aren’t sure.

It’s a very satisfying and not-too-difficult job if you commit. Have fun!


Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
C&C 30-9 Ginkgo, Gloucester MA
C&C 39-59 Sea Fox, Hamilton, ON

> On May 18, 2020, at 11:06 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Rich,
> 
> I like the sounds of this upgrade, as I was quite surprised to hear the 
> lenses are only 1/8" thick. I suspect mine are original except over the nav 
> table, which is either thinner or a softer material, as it flexes noticeably 
> more, and there are slight bends in the frame. I don't have metal interior 
> frames, just flimsy fiberglass ones which have plenty of cracks. I reinforced 
> one with epoxy from the back, and painted, but the cracks are coming back. 
> The one over the stove is melted, so may be hard to rebuild. The gap between 
> deck and liner on my 35 is about 3/8", so will need a fair amount of epoxy to 
> fill. The fiberglass inner frames hide the gap (mostly), so the epoxy job 
> doesn't have to be perfect. 
> 
> I'm assuming I just tear out the old seals from the outside and then pop the 
> lens out? By the looks of it, the old rubber seals will probably fall apart 
> quite easily. I didn't realize there was foam tape on the inside; I guess 
> that explains the bit of stuff creeping out of the crack. Given the looks of 
> them, I am actually surprised they don't leak more, so I'm also hesitant to 
> touch them until I am really prepared to do it right.
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto <https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto>
> 
> 
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 7:11 PM Richard Klajnscek via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Years ago I decided that I wanted to keep the original Beclawat portlight 
> frames for the larger portlights on my C&C 30 rather than having custom long 
> ones made. To me, their proportion looks just right on the boat. I didn’t 
> like the 1/8” acrylic however - not very robust for that size of port. I did 
> what Shawn suggests - filled the approximate 1/8” gap between the headliner 
> and deck with epoxy thickened with structural filler, trying to ensure that 
> the overall thickness was consistent around the perimeter - some shims may be 
> needed to pry out parts of it to achieve this. I eliminated the interior 
> aluminum trim ring - it is not needed with the new solid structure. I used 
> 3/16” Lexan for the lenses and eliminated the foam tape to make room for the 
> extra thickness of material. It has worked flawlessly for many years - far 
> stronger and no leaks. The interior look is improved as well.
> 
> Rich Klajnscek, P.Eng.
> C&C 30-9 Ginkgo, Gloucester MA
> C&C 39-59 Sea Fox, Hamilton, ON
> 
>> On May 17, 2020, at 5:56 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> How about the 70s vintage aluminum framed portlights? I understand I will 
>> need new rubber inserts (Catalina direct has been suggested, but not sure if 
>> there is a source in Canada?), but is Dow 795 also suitable for the frame to 
>> deck seal?
>> 
>> I'm thinking I will fill the void between the deck and liner with epoxy, 
>> after stuffing a foam gasket around the joint and inward about 3/4" to 
>> contain the epoxy, so there is a stiffer surface. From the factory there 
>> were wooden shims and a few gobs of epoxy or similar, but most of the void 
>> is wide open.
>> 
>> I know I could upgrade to newer portlights, or maybe try to go frameless, 
>> but want to keep the look of the original if I can make it work well. I was 
>> thinking of buffing the frames to a shine, although not sure how long it 
>> would last...
>> 
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com <mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
>> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
>> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto <https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto>
>> 
>> 
>> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 3:37 PM Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> Tom,
>> 
>> Same concept here and this guy is a professional....I think.
>> 
>> https://youtu.be/MQyjxVUskd8 <https://youtu.be/MQyjxVUskd8>
>> 
>> 
>> Landfall 35
>> Westbrook, CT
>> 
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>> On Sat, May 16, 2020 at 6:15 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

_______________________________________________

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Reply via email to