The wiring on my 35 MK I was horrible. It was all untinned 16 gauge stuff the 
crumbled into black dust after 3 Bermuda trips.
I have very little of it left.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Shawn Wright 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 23, 2020 10:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Shawn Wright <shawngwri...@gmail.com>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Panel switches/circuit breakers

If it's working fine, then probably not, but my observations so far are: 
original wire is TEW rated, but not tinned, so it holds up ok in wet 
environments but is likely showing corrosion at the terminals, and is also 
stiffer (fewer strands) than current boat wire. Some of the wires disappear 
between the headliner and cabin top, which makes them nearly impossible to 
replace, and maybe subject to chafing, or damage if you drill any new holes for 
fittings (like for a dodger in my case). The wiring is only 16ga, which is 
borderline for the long runs, so don't put larger fuses than the load demands 
in to avoid melting wires.
I'd love to see some photos of what the original looks like, as mine is very 
far from it...
I'll share some once I am done the re-wire...
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com<mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=e491866f-b807d7ca-e491af18-0cc47adc5e34-769ec93efe0876a4&q=1&e=522017d4-a893-4399-9f1e-43f43f789495&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FSVCallisto>


On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 3:28 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Is there a big problem with the wiring and circuit panel on my 1974 35mkii. I 
have original stuff mostly with glass amp rated fuses for circuits on the 
panel. All systems work fine.  Haven’t noticed any issues yet

On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 4:38 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Not directly applicable to our C&C original electrical systems, which seem to 
use either switches + glass fuses (like our 35-2), or early style breakers, but 
just to be aware that there are now breakers that look exactly like regular 
rocker switches, with or without an LED light inside. The newer BlueSea 4322 
panels that I am using have these, and they are made by Carling, like most of 
the BlueSea breakers. They come only in 15A rating, but Carling does make other 
values as well, so one could swap them out. For the few circuits where the wire 
size does not support 15A (like the long masthead and bow light runs, where 15A 
would necessitate 12ga wire), I am will be wiring through a small ATO fuse 
block after the breakers to protect the wire.

This is the panel, and the individual breakers look like standard rocker 
switches.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/4322/Water-Resistant_Circuit_Breaker_Switch_Panel_-_Gray_6_Positions<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=20003ccb-7c966d6e-200015bc-0cc47adc5e34-68ba0daa0f3ad34e&q=1&e=522017d4-a893-4399-9f1e-43f43f789495&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.bluesea.com%2Fproducts%2F4322%2FWater-Resistant_Circuit_Breaker_Switch_Panel_-_Gray_6_Positions>

This is the actual breaker used:
https://www.mouser.ca/datasheet/2/65/C1005B_from_Thermal_Catalog-1776146.pdf<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=ea247c53-b6b22df6-ea245524-0cc47adc5e34-db8f400f72f197a4&q=1&e=522017d4-a893-4399-9f1e-43f43f789495&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mouser.ca%2Fdatasheet%2F2%2F65%2FC1005B_from_Thermal_Catalog-1776146.pdf>

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com<mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto<https://protect2.fireeye.com/v1/url?k=2e4730d8-72d1617d-2e4719af-0cc47adc5e34-b5006dceab62c1b5&q=1&e=522017d4-a893-4399-9f1e-43f43f789495&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.facebook.com%2FSVCallisto>


On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 9:27 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Depends.  If they look like little "coffee pot" switches then they are just 
switches.  If they look more like a breaker and are mount with the operator 
through a hole in the panel with 2 screws o  either side then it is a breaker.  
If it is a breaker then loosening the screws and removing the unit will reveal 
an amperage marking.  If it is a switch then the breaker is elsewhere.  My 37+ 
has a switch panel that makes a very clean and compact power distribution 
panel.  Behind the panel is a row of breakers and terminal boards that provide 
the over current protection.
I'll share pics off list.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Wed, Apr 22, 2020, 12:19 David Knecht via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 I always tell my students, “there are no dumb questions”, but this is one 
where I really should already know the answer.  For some reason, I got it in my 
head that the switches on my panel were circuit breakers.  I don’t think I have 
ever had one pop, and I realized the other day that none of them are labelled 
with an amperage.  So now I am wondering if they are just on/off switches.  I 
have looked online and see that you can buy similar panel switches that 
incorporate a circuit breaker and those are labelled with the amperage.   So 
are these breakers or switches?  If switches, how are the original panel 
circuits fused or maybe the question should be, how are they supposed to be 
fused?  Thanks- Dave

David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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