Put a fuse, close to the charger, between the charging outputs and the
batteries. The charger manual should tell you what size fuse to use. My
Water Witch works, even when it's dirty.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 9:36 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My charger outputs go only to the batteries, which power the relay panel
> switches/breakers, one of which is the bilge pump. Should I use a fuse on
> the battery positive terminal in addition to the circuit breakers on the
> breaker panel?
> (I don't recall whether the bilge pump circuit breaker was 'thrown' or not
> in the tale below).
>
> I now also have an electronic switch--unfortunately it gets dirty often
> from the bilge and doesn't work until its cleaned off by hand. I think it
> is a Water Witch 200 (?).
>
> Charlie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: C&C <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> Sent: Sat, Mar 14, 2020 12:03 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Float switch fail tale (formerly stuffing box leak
> rates)
>
> After two float switch failures, I switched to an electronic switch. No
> more failures. Besides having a circuit breaker on the AC side of your
> charger, you should have fuses in the DC side,
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Sat, Mar 14, 2020 at 8:24 AM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks all for your replies--I might need to tighten the packing gland or
> replace the packing material.
>
> My fear about leaving the auto bilge pump on is a result of a failed float
> switch many moons ago:
>
> I was away from the boat between weekends (at least) and it may have been
> several weeks and left both the bilge pump and battery charger on as I
> always did.
>
> When I did get back to the boat, the bilge pump switch was on but it was
> not running--so I initially thought it probably failed. I try to start the
> engine and no joy--the battery was dead.
> I check the charger, see that the AC power was on but the power converter
> breaker on the instrument panel was off. Thus I start to check out the
> Xantrex battery charger.
>
> As I open the lazarette to have a look, I get a distinct 'smoky' order. I
> then notice that there is soot and a black 'spot' on the charger cover,
> near one of the ventilation 'slots' of the charger. Apparently (?) the
> charger was running continuously trying to keep the battery charged while
> something was continuously discharging it. (Ultimately, I noticed that
> the float switch was stuck in the high water position which led to these
> conclusions.)
>
> With the soot/spot on the cover, things got pretty hot within and near the
> charger before the breaker went off.  I figure I was pretty close to having
> a fire start in the charger and the boat burning to the water line with no
> one around.
>
> My thoughts may change but this episode put the fear of fire much higher
> on my discomfort zone than a sinking. Further, I don't believe any of the
> small bilge pumps that would 'fit' in my shallow bilge could keep up with
> any leaks of a serious nature--shaft seal leaks and water down the mast
> excluded.
>
> Also, if it goes to the bottom I still have a boat, not a boat 'carcass'
> burned to the water line!
>
> There are probably better methods of bilge pump/float switch installs that
> might prevent a recurrence of the scenario above. Any lister suggestions
> would be welcome.
>
> Ultimately the boat WAS protected by the AC circuit breaker in the charger
> circuit, but not before something in the charger got hot enough to 'smoke'.
>
> For now, I have almost been 'burned' once and prefer to never get almost
> 'burned' again!
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
>
>
>
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