Dave,

Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common,
especially in older boats.  Just need to ensure the proper wire size to
carry the load to all the users.  Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss
bar which carries the power supply to each breaker.  The piggyback wiring
is philosophically analogous.

Personally, there are better ways to do it.  If there's a place for a buss
bar, you can route the power from the rotary switch to the bar then connect
each fuse to a connection on the bar.  I would not stack a bunch of
separate wires on the switched connection on the rotary switch.

On Touche', I have a Powerpost Plus, which is on the switched connection of
the battery rotary switch.  That is, when the battery switch is "ON", the
Powerpost is live.  A properly sized wire from the powerpost supplies a
couple of buss bars in Touche's breaker panel.  Each breaker is then
supplied individually from the buss bar.

Not sure about your comment on a fuse before a breaker.  A better pic might
help.

You should have a fuse at the battery.  I have these on Touche':

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Mar 11, 2020 at 11:58 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I understand the wiring in general and how the circuit works.  I am not
> sure what the logic is to have created the double crimp tabs in order to
> bridge power from one fuse to the other.  I get that each fuse will
> function for the circuit that goes to the panel.  What I am unclear on is
> #1, why have a fuse before a circuit breaker on the panel
> #2- is this the “right” way to accomplish safe wiring.  I could instead
> bring separate wires off the + from the rotary switch to each fuse rather
> than the bridging setup if I replace the current fuse holders.
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
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