An additional comment on the replacement windows. On my 42, the original plexi was nearly a perfect fit into the insets, and I noticed gel coat chipping around the edges of the insets. My theory about that chipping is the plexi expanded more than the boat on hot days. In addition, the experts on this list advised to leave a gap (1/8” to 3/16” as I recall) all around the replacements to make room for the silicone. As a result, my replacement windows were slightly smaller than the originals. Using my old windows, I made templates out of ¼” ply, then trimmed/sanded them to the size I wanted. I then used the templates, not the original windows, to cut the replacements. Another way would have been to use the original windows as templates (as discussed below), then sand them down before installing.
From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Richard Bush via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2020 8:31 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Richard Bush <bushma...@aol.com>; ray.mack...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 WINDOW REPLACEMENT CHALLENGE Raymond; I am quoting from instructions given to me by Dave Godwin of http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2019/ from Dave...."Windows are quite new. Three out of four of the old fixed ports were only around 18 years old and not in too bad of condition. They could have been polished up to look nice. But I went to a lot of trouble to fix the areas around the ports (the inset surface and all stress cracks…) so I wasn’t going to put old windows back in. Clean foot, dirty sock, etc., etc… Four new fixed ports; take out the old windows and send them to Maritime Plastics of Annapolis; Company is Annapolis Maritime Plastics, (410) 263-4424. They will duplicate them; For the installation I used the much discussed 3M VHB tape method. I had used the old style, just squirted in sealant method in the past and vowed never to do that again. Of course, those were pre-VHB days. The actual installation was quite simple and fairly easy. After taping the edges, inside and out, I used strips of tape off the top to create a hinge, allowing the port to swing down into its correct position vis-a-vis the sealant gap all around. Prior to applying the VHB tape, I cleaned all the surfaces well with a clean rag and a 50/50% mix of isopropyl alcohol and water. No mineral spirts or acetone... I ran the 1” VHB tape around the inset and trimmed the excess (the inset is around 3/4”, give or take…) before gently putting the port in place. Some momentary constant pressure around the edges and that was it. There was some talk about spraying the inside edge of the fixed port black to obscure the lighter background/irregularities but given that the VHB tape is black but it made no sense to me. With the VHB tape trimmed to the edge all you see inside the plastic is a nice black line provided by the VHB tape. After doing that I ran black silicone caulk around the edges, wiped it with a wet finger and that was all she wrote. Pulled the masking tape and surface protection tape. If you decide to do this here are some tips: Watch a really good video <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8> on the entire process. Buy yourself a good caulk gun. Makes a huge difference in metering the flow and is easy on the hand. One of my better tool purchases in light of using the old cheap painting ones. Good caulk. The stuff I used was like pudding, very smooth and loose. It went in easily and more importantly, didn't start to form a skim coat the second it came out of the tube. There was enough working time to run a bead all the way around (one port…) and then come back to smooth it out. If you ever decide to do this, I hope it helps. New ports really stand out. Regards, Dave List of items: Sealant: SCS200 Silpruf sealant. - link <http://www.siliconeforbuilding.com/Product-Categories/Weatherseal/GE-SCS2000-SilPruf.aspx> . Two tubes were the precise amount required for our ports. >From McMaster-Carr: VHB tape: 3M VHB Tape, Adhesive both sides. - link <https://www.mcmaster.com/#8127a35/=1eceeuo> . Again, two 15’ rolls were exactly enough tape. Caulk gun <https://www.mcmaster.com/#76015t13/=1ecrmra> I did my windows per Dave's instructions and am very happy wioth the results...after one year; let me know if you need more; al;so give us an update on your progress...! Richard s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255 -----Original Message----- From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Raymond Macklin <ray.mack...@gmail.com <mailto:ray.mack...@gmail.com> > Sent: Mon, Feb 17, 2020 3:06 pm Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33-2 WINDOW REPLACEMENT CHALLENGE Ok everyone. I am stepping up and finally going to replace my windows. I am open to any information or suggestions. I was thinking of replacing them with aluminum frame windows. Any thoughts or guidance with this project. All input is appreciated. Thanks Ray Macklin LakeHouse Milwaukee WI _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
