FWIW, the exposed teak ply on my boat has darkened over time.  If I remove a 
fixture such as a clock, the teak underneath is much lighter.

 

From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2020 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Interior teak water stains

 

That is exactly what we faced as well.  The teak is so light in most places so 
as to throw you off that it is teak at all.  It is still a bit of a work in 
progress for me, but I found that a quick wipe with mineral spirits can, 
depending on the wood condition, actually darken it just enough to then follow 
with the lacquer.  If I need to darken it a bit more (where UV has bleached the 
wood), I would use a little Watco Natural Danish Oil.  Even that, given our 
blonde wood can go a shade darker than I'd like pretty easily.  

 

I can say for sure though that regular varnish was WAY too dark for our 
interior.  I tried it on the nav station top and had to strip it and scrape to 
clean wood and try again.

 

I would be curious to know just how often C&C put out boats with the light 
wood, and if there is a better solution than what I am trying... 

 

Bruce Whitmore
1994 &C 37/40+
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> 

 

 

On Wednesday, February 12, 2020, 12:02:18 PM EST, Alan Liles via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

 

 

What color lacquer did you use on your 37/40? My 37/40 has a light lacquer on 
the teak below decks which is nice because it lightens up the interior. My 
problem is matching the existing color when fixing water damage. 

Al Liles

SV Elendil, C&C 37/40+

Vancouver BC

 

 


On Feb 11, 2020, at 3:38 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My 94 37/40+ did not seem to be oiled, but rather sealed with lacquer.  Using 
lacquer thinner and alcohol is enough to soften it/ use it as a remover.  
Following the with a furniture scraper or equipment was good enough to allow my 
to redcoat with lacquer.

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 

-------- Original message --------

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 2/11/20 5:10 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: cenel...@aol.com <mailto:cenel...@aol.com>  

Subject: Stus-List Interior teak water stains 

 

My interior teak has never been varnished or polyurethaned (?)--It was 
originally oiled and I re-oiled it once or twice many years ago. 

 

I would like to apply some Epiphanes to all of it--and there is a lot of it 
inside my 1995 C&C! However, much of it has 'water stains' from various leaks 
over the years--most of which are now sealed. 

 

My question for the list is how or whether to remove these stains--they are not 
like water marks left by a glass on a wooden table. They are mostly on vertical 
surfaces and run vertically. There are enough of them to make sanding them a 
formidable job so I want to be sure that sanding would be necessary. 

 

Some web videos show using heat (iron, blow dryers, etc.) to drive the 
remaining water out and make the stain disappear which is easy enough to try. 

 

Anyone on the list have suggestions to reduce the scale of this job--putting 
several coats of varnish on all of it would be a formidable job in 
itself--adding sanding to the surface prep, which I realize is probably the 
most important part of the job, could make it virtually impossible!

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C&C XL/kcb

 

 

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