Hi Jon This link shows core replacement on our former J27 "Nut Case". Similar construction. http://www.hoytsailing.com/J27Web/Projects/recore/recore.htm
We did not use the top skin since it was cracked and since the entire area was to be repainted anyway. As others have said if you can confine this to non-skid areas your life will be much easier and the result will look better. Since the time we did that project there were many other areas that we re-cored on that boat. Typically we used polyester resin for larger areas due to cost and cure times. For smaller areas we used epoxy. We later changed to using polyester for the bulk of the larger areas and then epoxy for the final fairing coats. The epoxy adheres better and is a bit stronger for the areas where the fairing meets the existing deck. Also note that contrary to the link shown fibreglass matt can only be used with polyester resin and not with epoxy. Also since you will not likely be keeping the boat for another 30 years balsa will hold up for the entire time you own the boat and much longer if sealed correctly. Balsa is very easy to work with and cost effective as well. The first of the re-coring on Nut Case was done in Spring 2008 and was still looking great when we sold Nut Case in June 2014. For Nut Case we repainted all of the non skid areas so because of that the Interdeck product had no issues with colour match although it was pretty close to start with anyway. Kiwi-Grip would likely be even better. Note that we also replaced core in 1 x 3 foot areas port and starboard surrounding chain plates on our Niagara 26 prior to working on the J27 and also replaced entire cockpit sole. On the Niagara the cockpit sole was delaminated and we tried initially drilling holes and injecting with epoxy. The injected repair seemed ok at first but we never could get all the water out so we eventually ripped out all the core and did it the right way. One final thing. The wet area is likely quite a bit larger than you would initially believe. Have a good surveyor or someone familiar with this work check the area before you begin so that you know the extent of the job you will be undertaking. Good luck with your project. It is not as daunting a job as you may believe. Mike Hoyt Persistence 1987 Freres 33 #16 Halifax, NS www.hoytsailing.com -----Original Message----- From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of JP Mail via CnC-List Sent: January 1, 2020 1:02 PM To: Stu <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: JP Mail <jon.peterpr...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Re core my deck 1985 35-3. I Need to recore a 1.5’ x 3’ area of deck. I’ve started researching. But I know there is good info here. Best material, divinycell or balsa? Anyone know the thickness I’d need? Best type fiberglass to finish with? Best way to hide it all? Deck paint and Nonskid? Thanks in advance. I’ve watched a bunch of youtube and I have mentally prepared myself to take this on. Jon Hideaway Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray _______________________________________________ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
