I just replaced the old switches with a new BlueSea's panel and their
ACS. Simple device replaces all the trauma and gets the job done.
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?name=blue-sea-systems-dual-battery-bank-management-panel&path=-1|328|2290000|2290006&id=1446905
On 11/18/19 9:15 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List wrote:
Shawn,
This arrangement allows the use of a starting type battery, which can
deliver high current loads for short time but is not intended be
drained significantly, on the starting bank, and deep-cycle type
which are intended to drain down to much lower level over a longer
time, on the house bank. It would depend your use and on how often
you recharge whether this is important or not, to be sure. And there
are now dual purpose batteries, so it may be less of an issue if you
use them.
One other reason for this system is that it prevents the starting
voltage dip from shutting off your electronics on the house circuit,
one of the main reasons I chose this.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 11/18/2019 7:52 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how
often is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries
from being drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or
start) batteries, I could just additional on/off switches linked to a
house or start bus, and a switch between the buses? Something to
consider depending on how far I get carried away with my electrical.
Currently I have 2 banks, with room for a 3rd, and just leave them
combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC batteries. If I'm
concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays away for
too long (and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't
happened. And so far, the only significant load we have is the
fridge, with minimal electronics. Once we add radar, that will change...
--
Shawn Wright
[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I suggest changing to the linked setup.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk
Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
<[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way —
essentially the plastic broke and the guts of the switch come
apart causing a flaky connection. Seems this is a common
problem base on this forum:
https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html
I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.
Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when
I did a battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor. Now I’m
worried about simply replacing with the same one if it’s
prone to failure.
Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been
really bad if I’d needed power in a hurry.
I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to
the starter in case this happens again or for jump starting,
etc.
Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?
Thanks,
Jeremy
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
_______________________________________________
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
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