Dave I used 5/8” construction grade plywood for the substrate. I would have preferred 3/4” but that would have put the Lonseal slightly proud of the liner edges. I did screw the substrate down but some screws didn’t grab well. Maybe one of those vhb tapes would be a good alternative.
Mike Begin forwarded message: > From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Date: November 15, 2019 at 6:58:29 PM EST > To: John Christopher via CnC-List <CNC-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Dave Godwin <dave.god...@me.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List FW: Fwd: Fwd: Cabin Sole resurfacing > Reply-To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > Mike, > > That. Is. One. Beautiful. Cabin sole. > > Well worth the effort I’d say. I’m going to look into that 1/2 router edge > that you made. My early version of the 37’ doesn’t have the nice liner edges > that yours does but it may be an important technique. My model simply drops > in, butts up to the joiner work and is finished teak 1/4-round moulding. > > Questions: what is the substrate that you used? Did you screw the panels in > like was done on my model? It’s a design “feature” that I have not been wild > about and am thinking about some other fastening system when I put my cabin > sole back in. > > Having been exposed to new boats with flooring systems like yours I have to > think that it will hold up better that the original teak and holly 3/4” ply. > > Well done. > > Regards, > Dave Godwin > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > Reedville - Chesapeake Bay > Ronin’s Overdue Refit > >> On Nov 15, 2019, at 6:16 PM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Bruce, Rod, Et Al >> >> Here is a link to some pictures of my Lonseal cabin sole install. Cabin Sole >> >> Sorry Rod I down race so I can’t answer your questions. My opinion; the >> product itself is a superior vinyl product and with proper installation >> there should be no issue. That being said if you drop something the Lonseal >> will hold up well but the substrate may dent and be visible. >> >> Some tips >> Design substrate (plywood) with as few seams as possible. >> Router bottom outsides edges with ½” router >> Apply a minimum of 2 coats of epoxy to all pieces on all sides >> Roll out the Lonseal on a solid flat surface (living room floor) upside >> down then lay plywood upside down in the pattern it will be applied. Cut >> Lonseal at least 1” larger than required on all side. Makes it easier to >> install and easier to trim after glue is set. >> Tape joints like you would with drywall. I didn’t. >> Use j-roller instead of recommended 100 lb. roller. See mod I made to >> j-roller so I could apply more weight >> Follow gluing instructions to the letter especially the off gassing. I >> didn’t and some bubbles occurred that couldn’t be rolled out. >> Use router with edge trimmer to cut bilge ports. >> >> I was lucky that my sole was a bit narrower than the LonSeal. Just ensure >> the pieces in the v-berth and the small piece in the galley lines all line >> up. Same thing for the bilge access ports. I had to make a small >> lengthwise cut around the mast truck to fit around the centreboard tube. It >> can’t be seen unless you really look for it. >> >> Mike >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >
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