Hi Charlie,
That was EXTREMELY helpful!
Yes, ours has that same behavior - the cable being taut even though the board
is "down" and the eye is resting against the stop.
That potential damage is enough to make me nervous. I think what I will do
while I wait until the next haul-out is to be at the boat when the next bottom
cleaning is done, do it at high tide, and have the diver do a visual
inspection. It won't mean that 100% of the cable is good, but at least I'll
know the condition at the board!
Thank for the in-depth insights,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019, 4:59:32 PM EDT, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hey Bruce, In C&C's effort (probably Rob Ball) to minimize the drag/turbulence
etc. of this era's boards, they were made 'elliptical' such that no matter how
far the board was lowered, it fully 'filled' the trunk opening which reduces
drag, etc. from what would otherwise be an large opening where the back of the
board meets the trunk. Only when released (to the point of being supported only
by the pin) can the board end of the cable be inspected, or replaced for that
matter, in or out of the water. You have probably noticed that even when fully
down, there is considerable tension on the pennant--because the board is still
secured by both the pennant and the pin. It may be 'down' but it is not
completely 'down'. I happen to know the weight of my board because the yard
weighed its replacement after running a betting pool on what it would weigh
after it was filled with lead. The yard secretary was closest to the actual
weight--924 lbs. It takes a #30 Lewmar winch and a 3:1 purchase to raise it. I
suspect that any 37/40 board (basically from the same era at C&C--late 80s to
early 90s) would weigh at least that much. Only when I am racing with crew is
it lowered/raised--I never use it for cruising. If your pennant breaks
catastrophically (while in the up position, as mine did), the least of your
worries will be damage to the trunk (although you will have that also)! Mine
let go while up and with ~ 925 lbs. swinging from ~ horizontal to vertical, it
smashed into the trunk with so much force that the board sheared off at the pin
when it hit the trunk and most of it lies in the Neuse River. This was after ~
16 years on the 1st pennant. Unfortunately, the pennant is not easily inspected
unless you let the board go down past its normal stop position and I suspect
the 37/40 board is similar. Thus although the pennant was 'inspected' by the
yard almost yearly, they did not lower it far enough to notice the fraying SS
cable--but this was clearly visible after the board 'disappeared'! I have been
tempted to use Dyneema as the pennant but the yard is more comfortable
replacing SS with SS and the cost of the cable is comparable to the equivalent
line and the labor is about the same. Since that disaster, I have the pennant
replaced every 5-6 years with SS cable. This cost is but a small fraction of
building a new board and installing the boat over it--believe me I know!
Charlie Nelson1995 C&C 36 XL/kcbWater Phantom -----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 2, 2019 2:25 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List 36-1 centerboard pendant
Hi Charles,
I agree with you. However I have a related question...
On our C&C 37/40+, our centerboard is HEAVY! I'm talking enough that I not
only have to use the cabintop winch to get it up, but even in the slow speed
when I am feeling particularly wimpy. I have also heard of another 37/40+
cable breaking, resulting in the centerboard slamming down and damaging the
trunk.
What weight is yours/ and is this a concern for others with a centerboard
beyond the 37/40+?
I have not had my boat out of the water yet for a bottom job (I bought it a
couple years ago), but I'm certainly thinking I should replace it when I do.
How often do you folks replace your cable?
If you've had it fail, do you get any warning (other than the recent post about
fraying)?
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019, 1:47:57 PM EDT, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
FWIW, I like amsteel where I can see it. I spliced my lifelines in amsteel.
And I replaced a SS cable in my vang with dyneema. I use soft schackles. But I
think I'd prefer a centerboard pendant to be SS where it can stand up to unseen
abrasion & barnacles and will last 20 + years. Am I overthinking this?
Chuck S, Resolute, 1990 C&C 34R Maryland
On October 2, 2019 at 12:06 PM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi Rod,
My setup is a little different, but may be more easily serviced.
I've done this a couple of times last year and had to follow up to get the
dimensions exactly right. We did it in the water - diver worked below. We sent
down a light gauge messenger line and used it to pull in the new pendant. Easy.
Mine is made with dyneema with an eye splice at each end. Lower shackle is 5/16
and upper is smaller (3/16" I think). Can't remember the price but it was under
$100. Maybe $70. Lasts a coupe of years.
Centerboard pendant Dyneema12'6"x5/16" LOA (not incl D shackle) Ocean
3000XG 5/16" 9900 lbs.; std D shackle 5/16", L:29mm, W:17mm (Island Nautical)
Jul 3, 2018
Hope this helps. Call if you need more info.
--
Tim Rutherford 1981 C&C 36-1 #244 Chamamé Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text
On Tue, Oct 1, 2019 at 3:22 PM Michael Brannon via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Rod, the arrangement on my boat is a thimble to a shackle at the
centerboard. You will have to cut the wire the remove it as the thimble will
not fit through the tube. My pendant has an aircraft fork on deck. The only
thimble is at the board.
I hope this helps,
Mike
Mike Brannon Virginia Lee 93295 C&C 36 CB Virginia Beach, VA
On Oct 1, 2019, at 1:07 PM, Rod Fisk via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
I have to replace the wire pendant on my 1981 36-1. There are some broken
wires where the cable wraps around the thimble at the deck end. Does anyone
have any detailed specs or drawings? I work at an industrial rigging shop so I
can have a new one made. I also want to know what to expect when I lift the
boat this month so I have the right tools to take off the old one.
Thanks Rod Fisk 36-1 Corsair Lake Winnebago, WI
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every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
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