Nearly guaranteed to be standard SAE size.  McMaster-Carr has all the
fractionals up to about 3 inches.  It you have calipers that will be the
easiest method to measure the bolt diameter.  If not then use a tape
measure and wrap it around the bolt and divide the result by 3.14.

Josh



On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, 12:30 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I did not measure the bolt size when I was on the boat and I was not sure
> if it was some unusual tread type.  Dave
>
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor, Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> U-3125
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
> 860-486-2200
>
> On Jun 28, 2019, at 11:23 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I don't know what size you are looking for but I whimsically found a 316
> SS 1-1/4" on McMaster-Carr for ~$11.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Fri, Jun 28, 2019, 10:38 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> That sounds like my setup. I saw a small wire extending underneath the
>> keel bolt washer and could not believe that was the connection since it was
>> about 6 AWG on the wire to the step and 14 AWG at the washer.  Not sure how
>> it gets from 6 AWG to that thin wire yet.  Anyway, I like the tapped
>> aluminum plate idea, but I was hoping to not have to remove the keel bolt
>> nut since they were recently torqued and I don’t have a torque wrench to
>> re-tighten.  That is why I thought it would be easier to put a second nut
>> on top and tighten the nut onto the plate.  I can get that tight enough
>> with a pipe or adjustable wrench.    I am not sure which is cheaper/easier;
>> renting/buying a torque wrench or buying a second nut, but if I can find a
>> nut, that seems like a simple solution.  Anyone know of a source?  Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> <pastedGraphic.tiff>
>>
>> On Jun 27, 2019, at 9:54 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mine was like Chuck's.
>>
>> I found the wire to be shockingly small and  the copper terminals heavily
>> corroded and poorly terminated.  If relatively low voltage and current was
>> able to attach the 1/4-20 bolt to the washer I figure that the current and
>> voltage of lightning will probably be enough to detach the bolt.  I made a
>> failed attempt to drill and tap the keel bolt.  By failed I mean that the
>> tap must not have been cutting square in the hole and I ultimately ended up
>> breaking the tap after successfully cutting threads about 1/2 inch deep.
>> The hardened steel of the tap was impossible to drill or extract.  This
>> would have been the absolute best method had it cut square and not broken.
>> I still recommend it.  BTW I was planning for a 3/4 inch long by 3/8ths SS
>> bolt for anchoring the wiring terminal to the keel bolt.
>>
>> Instead of bolting directly to the keel bolt I ended up making a ground
>> plate out of 3/16th thick plate aluminum.  I cut a hole big enough for a
>> keel bolt.  I left a tang of metal extending out to the side.  In this tang
>> I drilled and tapped an hole for the 3/8ths bolt.  I locked the bolt in
>> place with a nut and then sandwiched the ground wire terminal between the
>> nut another.
>>
>> My mast end of the wire just terminated at the metal step - again poorly
>> with no real attachment to the mast.  Instead I reassembled with a 3/8ths
>> bolt through the mast to act as a stud and then used a nut and washer to
>> hold the new ground wire terminal.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 27, 2019, 6:17 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> David,
>>>
>>> Find the other end under the mast step.
>>>
>>> If it's like mine, there is a large washer under a keel nut with a 1/4"
>>> x 20 stud welded to it, and the ground wire which is simply a foot long
>>> battery cable with eyes crimped on each end is fastened to the bolt.
>>>
>>>
>>> CS
>>>
>>>
>>> On June 27, 2019 at 4:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> I need to replace my mast grounding wire with 4 AWG (according to my
>>> surveyor).  It appears to connect at one end to the aluminum base plate of
>>> the mast and that nut is accessible and a new cable can be attached with a
>>> lug.  I have not yet found the other end. Could it be under the keel bolt?
>>> I have been thinking of ways to attach to a keel bolt.  The easiest would
>>> be if I could put a large enough lug on the end to go over a keel bolt and
>>> then put another nut on top.  I have not found a lug that large so this may
>>> be moot.  Can you buy a keel bolt nut?  Anyone know the spec or a source?
>>> Could I trap a large lug between the existing keel nut and a second one?
>>> An earlier thread discussed using braided copper instead but that appear to
>>> contradict ABYC standards.  Any suggestions on the best/easiest way to do
>>> this?  Thanks- Dave
>>>
>>> S/V Aries
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>>
>>> <pastedGraphic.tiff>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>> <pastedGraphic.tiff>_______________________________________________
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>> <pastedGraphic.tiff><pastedGraphic.tiff>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> _______________________________________________
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> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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