In the mostly light airs of the NC Pamlico Sound (and probably the Chesapeake), 
I have little experience with reefing. OTOH, I do have a single reef point in 
my main sail and a single line reefing system via a reefing line led to a cabin 
top winch through a rope clutch. It goes thru the boom directly, no purchase 
system for it in the boom.  I never liked that the aft cringle in the main for 
the reef was originally rigged straight to the aft boom end at a non-zero angle 
to the boom--was always afraid I would rip the cringle out if I used a winch on 
the reef line plus it did not look correct. Got rid of the problem by mounting 
another a pair of bales on the opposite sides of the boom slightly aft of the 
aft cringle so that when it was pulled down (mostly), I could get most of the 
reefed sail's new 'foot' down to the boom. This has worked the few times I have 
needed it plus the resulting reefed main has a reasonable and flat shape near 
the boom. Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb.  -----Original 
Message-----
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Sent: Wed, Jun 19, 2019 4:01 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim

Randy, I agree with Bill.  I've never heard of anyone using both rings.  Years 
ago I too used to picture the rings coming down around both sides of the pack 
and hooking on each side.  As such, even after realizing that only one ring was 
possible I would still reserve the port ring for the port hook and vice versa.  
I described my difficulties with my sail maker and he said, "You're doing it 
wrong.  Have to tried crossing?  You know the port ring to the stbd horn?"  I 
was dumbfounded by the nonchalant nature and simplicity of the answer.  Low and 
behold the next reef was so much easier and cleaner looking.
David, I find that pulling in the reefing line while simultaneously lowering 
the halyard, combined with the helm maintaining the luffing of the sail, 
ensures that the sail doesn't ever have an opportunity to spill on the deck or 
foul in the lazy jacks.  Since my lines are led aft I have to run forward 
momentarily to hook the ring.  Taking up the reefing line early has given 
better luck keeping the sail from flogging the ring off the horn while I'm 
transitioning back from the mast to the cockpit.  For anyone with halyards at 
the mast this is probably not as valuable.  Even less valuable if the reef is 
at a different location than the halyard.
Shawn, I have a purchase system buried in my boom for the outhaul and the 1st 
reef.  Any type of single line reefing system will not work with this setup 
since the cringle will not pull with the same ratio as the clew.  I've also 
heard of added complications keeping mainsail foot tension since the with most 
single line systems the cringle is kind of allowed to "float" fore and aft.  
Additionally the added friction of a single line system can make shaking out 
the reef a little bit more challenging.

Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD 
On Wed, Jun 19, 2019, 2:34 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Randy, I believe you are only supposed to use one ring at atime.  Depends on 
which tack you are on. Pretty simple fix, as you noted, justneed a little 1” 
webbing.  I have some if you need it. Bill ColemanErie PAFrom: 
CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Randy Stafford 
viaCnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 19, 2019 12:08 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Randy Stafford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Heavy weather sail trim  I bought a new mainsail last 
year with two reef pointsincluding dogbones in the cringles.  And I bought a 
gooseneck pin withram's horns.  Problem is the dogbones aren’t long enough, so 
I can onlyhook one ring, and I have to remove the sail stop to let a slug out 
of thetrack to do so.  Easily fixed by my local sail repair guy after 
propermeasurement, but just a PITA.   Using the Cunningham with strong tackle 
/deck hardware seems like an efficient alternative.  My Cunningham just hasa 
cheek block and jam cleat on the mast - I’d prefer something beefier 
forreefing. Cheers,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C  30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO

On Jun 19, 2019, at 8:13 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote: I have a slightly different system for reefing.  I havea 4-1 downhaul 
with a stainless hook for attachment to the cringle and led backto the cockpit 
stopper.  I have the main halyard premarked for a heightthat allows me to move 
the hook from the normal downhaul position to the reefpoint cringle.    So I 
drop the main to the designated spot, move thehook, tighten the main halyard, 
then the downhaul, then the leech reefing lineand ready to go.  The position of 
the main halyard is much less criticalwith the hook because it does not tend to 
fall off the cringle like the dogbone rings fall off the horns.  With lazy 
jacks and a Mack Pack, I don’tbother to tie the main around the boom.  It is 
not much different in timeand effort than attaching the dog bones to the horn, 
but since my main did notcome with dog bones, this was a simple alternative.  
Dave

On Jun 19, 2019, at 9:54 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote: Thanks, John, for this excellent write up of reefing - veryhelpful. 
Although we did go through reefing several times on our recent ISPAcourse, the 
boat was rigged a bit differently, and we also had a crew of 5, sothings were 
much easier. The instructor's boat (a Formosa 43) used somethingsimilar to dog 
bones - just short pieces of rope - but they were veryeffective. He also added 
a rope wrapped around the mast and through the reefingcringle after the reef 
was in, and this is what I did when I had to reef onMonday. It seemed to work 
well, so I will measure space needed to clear thesail folds/slugs and make a 
short loop of rope to stay in the cringle for now.I like the strap and SS ring 
idea even better so I will look for the right sizerings. And now is also a good 
time to mark the halyard since the reef is stillin place!  --Shawn 
wrightshawngwri...@gmail.coms/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 
35https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto  On Tue, Jun 18, 2019 at 3:46 PM Josh 
Muckley via CnC-List<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
If you stay around the list long enough you'll hear peoplerefer to "dog bones" 
in the reef cringles.  They are shortpieces nylon webbing passing through the 
sail grommet at each of the reefpoints along the sail luff.  On each end is a 
SS ring.  The ringskeep the dog bones captive.  The length of the bones is 
designed so as toaccommodate the stack height of the sail slugs in the mast - 
shorter bone forthe first reef and progressively lo ger for the second and 
third.  A sailmaker can make the bones for you the next time the sail is in 
forservice.  Alternatively you can make them yourself out of some amsteel 
orother small stuff.  If you have a cunningham you can even arrange them sothat 
one ring hooks on the horn and the other is positioned to be hooked by 
thecunningham.  When going for the reef I've found it very effective to turnoff 
the wind but not down wind.  Maybe 60° to 90°.  Release thetraveler all the way 
so that the main luffs straight back in line with theboom.  Simultaneously ease 
the halyard and take in the reefing line. It helps to have the halyard 
premarked so you know that you have lowered itenough.  Once down, hook the dog 
bone.  Harden the halyard and thenthe reef line.  Remember to ease the 
mainsheet and vang too so that theboom can rise up to the new clew.  Once it is 
all hardened up then you canlash the sail as needed and come back up to the 
wind. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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