It is quite possible (and it has happened to mine after changing the water 
heater) to have a pocket of air on the glycol side that prevents circulation of 
the glycol.  To solve this, remove one end of the hose and fill it with the 
glycol/water solution and then re-attach the hose.  At this point it shoul 
re-establish flow.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C&C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On May 16, 2019, at 9:51 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Bruce, the engine loop inside the water heater is usually copper with no 
> check valves so it should not matter how it’s connected, it’s just a loop. 
> You can tell which hose is the supply with the engine running, it’s going to 
> be the warmest one. The little bit of air inside the loop will be removed by 
> the engine in its normal cycle and coolant will be drawn back in from your 
> coolant reservoir. The air inside the tank will come out the hot side of a 
> faucet. I avoid bleeding air using the pressure temperature relief valve 
> because they are notorious for dripping after you do, probably less of a risk 
> at boat pressure compared to household pressure. If it does it’s usually made 
> by Watts and they aren’t too expensive or hard to replace with a small pipe 
> wrench. You haven’t said why you suspect air but if it’s been disconnected a 
> while the engine inlet or outlet can become plugged and not circulate. Best 
> way to tell is if you have warm water circulating through both hoses with the 
> engine running. 
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+ 
> Midland On. 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
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