Accumulator tanks should have an air bladder and the air pressure should be adjusted to half that of the pump shutoff. Really these help prevent excessive cycling at the pump shut off pressure. They don't eliminate cycles when the system is being used and don't really change anything when the pump is on.
I agree with the smaller diameter tubing. Depending on your needs you might even consider 1/4" tubing. You have to remember that when you use larger tubing/piping it takes more glycol to winterize, and more flush water to clean it out in the spring. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sat, Jan 19, 2019, 3:07 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: > Listers: > > I replaced my potable water tank last year and discovered that the > water system must have a leak in one or more of the ancient > hoses/fittings. I decided that it’s time to replace the old hoses and > check/replace fittings, and I’m considering also adding an accumulator > tank. The hose currently coming from the tank is 5/8” ID, but the > accumulator tank I’m thinking about adding to the system accepts 1/2” ID > hose. Two questions: 1) are small accumulator tanks worth the cost and > effort to install; and 2) is there any benefit of using 5/8” hose instead > of 1/2” hose (or vice versa). Please advise. Thanks. > > Matt Wolford > C&C 42 Custom > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >
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