Thanks Paul..I saw the same resources and that is why I only had one new 
thermostat...lol.  I think now I will disassemble and take a harder look at the 
configuration of the thermostat housing.
Bill

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Tuesday, May 29, 2018 Dreuge via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi,


The thermostat on the raw water cooled Yanmar 3QM30H has always been a bit of a 
mystery on the use of one thermostat or  two thermostats. While there appears 
to be two thermostat holes in the housing, the service manual shows a diagram 
of only one thermostat and the discussion is in regards to always "a 
thermostat". The Yanmar 3QM30 parts manual also lists a quantity of 1 for the 
thermostat (105582-49200).  My engine came with one thermostat, so when I 
rebuilt the engine, I put in one thermostat and it has been working fine.  I 
wished I took better detailed photos of the thermostat housing, because I 
recall convincing myself that based on the housing, a second thermostat would 
would do absolutely nothing.


Note for the raw water cooled engine, there is only one thermostat from Yanmar 
that fits so you can’t screw up and mix thermostats of different temperature 
settings.  Early 3QM30 were converted to fresh water using the Sen-Dure fresh 
water heat exchange kit.  With the Sen-Dure kit, the engine used the same 
thermostat, but one replaced the temp sender.   The engine ran hotter because 
the heat exchanger was not as optimal in cooling water as exchanging hot for 
cold raw water.  But since the thermostat opened at lower temperature, the 
engine was not as efficient in coming up to the hotter operating temperature.  
Later Yanmar came out with the fresh water cooled 3QM30F using Yanmar’s own 
heat exchanger.  The 3QM30F uses a different and physical bigger and hotter 
thermostat which is mounted on the Yanmar heat exchanger and get rid of the old 
one which was mounted on top of the exhaust manifold.




-
Paul E.

1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





On May 28, 2018, at 9:16 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


Date: Mon, 28 May 2018 20:27:42 -0400
From: wwadjo...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List thermostat on 3QM30H
Message-ID: <163a94b1b92-c9a-17...@webjas-vab075.srv.aolmail.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Thanks for info.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Monday, May 28, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Bill;

?

A ?raw? water cooled engine passes water from outside the boat ( in your case 
lake water) through the engine for cooling. A ?fresh? water cooled engine has 
antifreeze in the engine and a heat exchanger, and the lake water only passes 
through the heat exchanger to cool the antifreeze circulating inside the engine.

?

Josh?s note about making sure you have the correct thermostats installed in 
your engine is spot on.

?

A raw water engine uses a low temperature thermostat and has a low operating 
temperature. I would have guesses 120-125, but Josh found a spec of 108 for the 
thermostat. Your operating temperature when the engine is under load should be 
around 140-145. That helps to prevent deposits inside the engine that will 
block the cooling passages.

?

A fresh water engine runs at a higher temperature ? diesels are more efficient 
at higher temperatures. You use a 165 degree thermostat and the engine can get 
to 180-190 under load.

?

One consequence of the lower temperature in a raw water engine is that there is 
increased production of unburned hydrocarbons and soot. Back in the day, when I 
was a Yanmar certified technician and teaching diesel mechanics, the consensus 
among the mechanics was that the exhaust elbow on the Yanmar 2 and 3 cylinder 
marine engines should have the carbon buildup cleaned out every 50 to 100 hours 
? at least yearly ? as preventative maintenance. 

?

On a raw water engine like yours, that would be a very good idea.

?

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

?

?

?


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