If you use more than 50% of the battery, the lifespan drops but you also get 
more AH per $. Solar energy studies showed the best cost per AH came in at 
using cheap golf cart batteries and running them very hard – up to 80%C. I use 
gels that last longer and cost way more. They die very fast when charged wrong, 
but deep cycling is OK with them.
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 4:24 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery power

Hi Edd- I have considered one of those devices, but it seems you have to still 
have to know the rate of draw of the refridgerator,fans,lights and what is the 
acceptable lowest voltage/charge of the house battery.  I guess that device 
will tell you the rate of draw in amps.  If I know those parameters, it seems 
to me it should be just as good to look at the voltage in the evening and know 
that you do or do not need to charge the battery before going to bed or turn 
off the fridge.  So I guess the question is:
1.  What is the lowest voltage you can safely let your house battery get to?
2.  How would you measure the overnight draw on the battery if power is left on 
to fans +fridge + lights to prevent going lower than that battery voltage given 
that the fridge draw is not continuous.
Dave

On Feb 12, 2018, at 3:23 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

David,

While there are calculations you can use, rate of battery discharge is also 
affected by battery age and temperature.

And, since I’m really, really good at spending other people’s money, I’d 
suggest installing a Battery Monitoring System: 
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289954%7C2289950&id=1130644<https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289954|2289950&id=1130644>

I have a similar system on the Enterprise — A Heart Interface Link 2000. See 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xantrex-Heart-Interface-Link-2000-Complete/132499499047?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dfe0fb3de9f6c425585c79ccae997251d%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D302615330618%26itm%3D132499499047&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598<https://www.ebay.com/itm/Xantrex-Heart-Interface-Link-2000-Complete/132499499047?_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIM.MBE&ao=1&asc=20160908110712&meid=fe0fb3de9f6c425585c79ccae997251d&pid=100677&rk=1&rkt=4&sd=302615330618&itm=132499499047&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598>
 Properly installed and programed, you can see how much time you have left on 
your house bank with the draw you are using at any given time.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log<http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>




On Mon, Feb 12, 2018 at 3:01 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
This discussion raises an issue I have struggled with as I have started 
cruising more: deciding how much battery power I have.   I have 2 AGM 
batteries, one house, one starting and a panel voltmeter for monitoring.  My 
batteries are now separated so I no longer have to worry about being able to 
start the engine if I run the house too low. The fridge is the only major power 
draw, so I usually am just conservative, running it only periodically to make 
sure I don’t overdraw the battery.  So what is the most efficient way to figure 
out how much I can safely run the fridge?  If I just watch the voltage, how do 
I decide if I can leave the fridge on overnight?  Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

<pastedGraphic.tiff>

On Feb 12, 2018, at 2:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Much of your problem is a matter of battery capacity as much as a matter of 
charging capacity.  I have ~450 Ah of capacity on one bank, a 90 Amp alternator 
that never reaches full load, and 200 watts of solar.  Even without the solar I 
was able to comfortably keep the the fridge running and the lights on when 
cruising for ~2 weeks.  The half hour to hour of engine operation to anchor or 
moore in the evening and the same in the morning was always enough to keep the 
batteries charged.

Keep in mind that the battery capacity should be at least 4x of the charge 
capacity for flooded lead acid and at least 2x for AGM.  So a 400 Ah or 200 Ah 
respectively for a 100 amp alternator.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Feb 12, 2018, 12:55 PM Damian Greene via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
A question for your collective wisdom:

I am scoping out upgrading my stock 55A alternator to a 100A Balmar, and 
related upgrades to the controls. I had a very productive discussion with Rod 
Collins at Compass Marine (mainesail), and we worked out the details. 
Unfortunately he's booked out through the spring, so this job will wait until 
next winter.

So thinking then about keeping the batteries charged, and the fridge running on 
our long summer cruise - where we may go for weeks without access to shore 
power, I got wondering about using a portable generator to charge the batteries 
- as an alternative to many hours of running the diesel. There are a couple of 
Hondas that might do the trick 2000 Watt, weighing 47#, 1000 Watt weighing 29#.

Have any of you tried this? What could (would) go wrong if I plugged this 
generator into my inverter, to charge the batteries?

Regards,

Damian

1986 Sabre 38 Freefall
Previously 1984 C&C 34 Ghost
Bass Harbor, Maine
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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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_______________________________________________

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

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