Tom,

With regards to the halyards on Invictus, if your current halyards are wire
to rope, switching over to a full rope halyard should include a thorough
inspection of all masthead and exit sheaves for both compatibility and wear.
Rope sheaves will have a radiused groove in the sheave while a sheave
designed to support a wire halyard will have more of a V-shaped or Y-shaped
profile.  Wire halyards will often cause wear and sharp edges to form in the
sheaves which can prematurely chafe and tear up a brand new rope halyard in
a matter of weeks or months. Plus, the right sheaves will be properly shaped
to evenly support the tension on the halyard and minimize wear and friction.
It is best to upgrade the sheaves to a properly radiused rope sheave if you
plan to get rid of the wire..  While there is a cost involved in doing so,
wire to rope halyard tend to be expensive to make or buy and require a
special skill set that isn’t found with every rigging shop.  On top of that,
you will find the rope/wire halyards to be much heavier than 100% rope.  And
while wire has very little stretch, it also creates the dreaded “meathooks”
when chafed, which will translate to your crew getting a very painful gash
in their hands if it goes unnoticed.  

Hopefully, your boat has already transitioned to all-rope halyards and none
of this will matter, but it is still a good idea to check the sheaves for
wear in general.

 

  Also keep in mind that when your boat was new, the high modulus ropes
available now weren’t around, so often the rope sizes specified in owner’s
manuals would be oversized using today’s technology.  Using a 3/8” halyard
on a 30’ boat is pretty standard stuff, but I’ve seen folks use ½”-5/8” jib
sheets on 30’ boats which has me wondering why use such a large rope for
something that doesn’t require as much tensile strength.  I get it that if
you apply what I would call the “Sunfish” theory (think having a main sheet
with no jam cleat), a larger diameter rope might be easier on the hands.
But our boats have winches, rope clutches, jam cleats and 6:1 mainsheet
purchases, so having a big heavy rope as a control line, just means you will
have a bigger snarled up mess on the cockpit floor.  Especially if you sail
in light conditions or race with a big genoa, big diameter jib sheets are a
liability rather than an asset.

We have enough folks in here that do Wednesday night racing on the 30 mk1,
that rope size info using newer ropes should be easy to get.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2018 6:30 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power <sv_invic...@outlook.com>
Subject: Stus-List New lines and hayalards

 

Hello everyone,

 

I'm thinking of replacing all of the sheets and halyards on Invictus, hoping
for some insight. 

 

Dennis of Touche posted a note about color designation that I thought was
interesting but I forgot to copy it.

 

Looking for recommendations of size type and color of lines and halyards for
a cruising sailboat that may enter a fun club race once in a while.

 

Thanks for any help,

 

Cheers.

 

Tom Power

Invictus

C&C 30 MK1

Fredericton, NB

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