Thanks Gary. When monkeying with the steering cables keep and eye out for fish hooks. If you find any then it is time for a replacement. I'm happy to discuss this further if desired under a different subject line.
There is also a good chance that the sheeves at the bottom of the pedistal are in need of replacement. The plate to which theycare mounted is carbon steel and after 30 years mine was in bad need of replacement. Major areas had rusted away and I think this was contributing to slop, noise, and misalignment in the cables for the steering system. Good news, edson doesn't make these components the same way anymore. They use bronze now instead. Bad news, the new ones are supposed to be like for like but absolutely are not. Working with edson they think that they sold me the very last carbon steel plate which they used to remount my old sheeves. They were extremely knowledgeable and helpful and didn't charge rediculously for their services. I kept the old carbon steel plate it anybody could use it for designing a new plate from... Say something like stainless steel? IIRC Chuck did a pretty good writeup of his solution to replacing the sheeves on his boat with the new style from edson. I didn't find it right off with google but the link below is someone else's example. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://biankablog.blogspot.com/2010/06/replacing-edson-steering-idler-plate.html&ved=2ahUKEwiw2uf4ycPYAhUC0lMKHRrhBOIQFjAMegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw3QkwKoAJtli2e9RxQDjCLL During all of your steering and rudder work. Consider what the consequences would be if any part of it failed! I've worked diligently to ensure that that doesn't happen. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jan 6, 2018 9:29 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Josh, > A great description of the process. I see some rudder inspection in > my future. > Gary > S/V Kaylarah > '90 C&C 37+ > East Greenwich, RI, USA > > ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ > > > On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 9:21 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Ron, >> >> I've had my rudder out once and had the drive wheel off at least twice. >> >> The lower delrin bushing at the top of the rudder and bottom of the shaft >> is juat a spacer. The weight of the rudder typically keeps the rudder down >> but if for some reason it were to have an upward thrust the bushing keeps >> it in place. This also prevents creating a place for ropes and bio-fouling >> to get caught. >> >> Removing the radial wheel is pretty uneventful. Its a bit time releasing >> the tension on the drive cables and getting them retensioned and centered >> is also time consuming. Not hard just time. Be careful though when there >> is no tension on the cables it is easier to slip teeth on the drive chain >> in the pedistal. To prevent this lock the wheel. You will also have to >> monkey with the cables to make sure they are returned to the turning >> sheeves under the pedistal during the reinstall. That's the trick part. >> >> The radial wheel is easy. Its position on the shaft is adjustable so you >> may want to note how the drive cables lead - how the align when entering >> the radial wheel. If they are good and need no adjustment then scribe the >> height of the radial wheel before removing it to make alignment easier >> during reassembly. A set of nuts and bolts on either side and it comes >> right off. Now is the time to bead blast it and paint. I don't know why >> they didn't from the factory. I found that I had insufficient washers for >> the nut and bolt heads. They had been eating away at the aluminum with >> galvanic corrosion and mechanical wear. Use tef-gel or marlube and >> consider a nylon washer at the pressure surface (between the SS washer and >> the aluminum wheel). >> >> Now for the real problem. Once the wheel is off you will want to support >> the weight of the rudder from above if in the water or below if on the >> hard. A hydraulic jack is perfect for this. The rudder weights 100 to >> 150lbs so lifting it is possible but holding it is impossible. With the >> load off the rudder the skate wheels are easy. They are held by a single >> bolt running through the rudder shaft. Just remove the nut and at least >> one should come off. They are bronze and getting new ones machined is >> cheap if you can't find any on McMaster-Carr. I suspect that corrosion on >> the SS bolt has caused the rollers to become seazed. This may complicate >> removal. PB Blaster, and a hammer will hopefully do the trick. >> >> TBH I'm a little surprised that they seazed at all SS and Bronze should >> be pretty trouble free. Make sure you look for any other cause as you >> disassemble. I fear that maybe the radial wheel has slipped down on top of >> the skate wheels and is preventing them from rolling. >> >> If you are on the hard this is actually the best time to remove the >> rudder and install zirc fittings so you can easily grease the shaft. I use >> the same lubraplate 130AA as the Max-Prop. If I was going to do it again I >> would install a hydraulic flex line that leads somewhere more convenient >> than the rudder shaft. 2 actually, one for the top and one near the >> bottom. Near the bottom but consider keeping it above the water line if >> possible. >> >> Good luck. Let us know what you find. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> >> On Jan 6, 2018 8:40 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> wrote: >> >>> I’m wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their >>> rudder. >>> >>> >>> >>> At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a >>> through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder. The wheels >>> ride on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3”ID >>> and 4”OD. My wheels are frozen and do not turn. When the rudder is >>> turned, the wheels drag on bushing and rotate it. I’ve tried to reach in, >>> turn the wheels and spray in a lubricate but no luck. It looks like I may >>> have to remove the radial wheel for access and possibly replace the >>> wheels. >>> >>> >>> >>> Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be >>> issues removing it? Does anyone know a source for skate wheels? >>> >>> >>> >>> There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder and >>> the hull. With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and >>> rotate around the rudder shaft. I guess when the rudder lifts up, the >>> bushing provides a bearing surface. Does this sound correct? >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> *Ron* >>> >>> Ron Ricci >>> >>> S/V Patriot >>> >>> C&C 37+ >>> >>> Bristol, RI >>> >>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> >> > > _______________________________________________ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > >
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