Marek,

Thank you for your very detailed procedure.

What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tom,
>
>
>
> This is how I do it:
>
>
>
> 1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely
> empty)
>
> 2. drain water from the water heater
>
> 3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models
> available from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with *TWO
> valves *(
> https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1507576917&sr=1-2&keywords=water+heater+bypass)
>
>
> 4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)
>
> 5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for
> that you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or
> online (e.g.:
> https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) -
> you may need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of
> hose, nipples etc.).
>
> 6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it
> for each faucet on cold and hot water)
>
> 7. this would be especially complicated for hot water, as your heater
> would have plenty of water to be purged.
>
> 8. engage the water heater bypass
>
> 9. disconnect pump from the supply line from the tank.
>
> 10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it into a jug
> of antifreeze
>
> 11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink stuff comes out of
> each and every faucet
>
> 12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate any remnants of AF
>
>
>
> You would need to modify this list to get the water out of the galley pump
> and water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the foot pump
> getting water from the lake? If so, you simply close the through-hull,
> disconnect the hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the same
> procedure as for the supply side of the head).
>
>
>
> If you have a cockpit shower, don’t forget it in your procedure
>
>
>
> Never put AF into the water heater - it is difficult to drain, you would
> need 5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, it can turn into a
> cotton-candy-like mush, if heated and you would have a hard time getting
> the taste out of the water after this.
>
>
>
> If you have an ice-box, the chances are that you have a pump that pumps
> out water from the bottom of it. Make sure that you winterise it, as well.
>
>
>
> If you have a drain in the head (shower sump?), make sure that you
> winterise it, as well.
>
>
>
> I hope I don’t need to mention that you need to winterise properly the
> head. It is not enough to just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out.
> You need to put AF into the supply side, as well.
>
>
>
> If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier than it sounds.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
> (the above procedure is still ahead of me, but I usually do it on the hard)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tom
> Lynch via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tom Lynch <thomasmly...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing
>
>
>
> What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?
>
>
>
> My system:
>
>
>
> 40 gallon tank estimated
>
> Water heater
>
> Pressurized water pump
>
> 2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump
>
> 1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump.
>
>
>
> My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to
> warmer climate for the winter.
>
>
>
> Tom Lynch
>
> S/V IndoIrish
>
> C&C 33 MKII
>
> Bayfield WI - Lake Superior
> _______________________________________________
>
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