Per instruction from the best diesel mechanics I know, I run a 30 micron filter in my Racor and a 5 or 10 in my engine filter. I don't wonder that your 2 micron filter clogged as soon as your roiled the fuel in your tank. I'm surprised it took that long to stop the engine. A useful addition to ease changing filters is a small electric fuel pump between the tank and the Racor, but I keep a quart or two of diesel in a bottle and top up the filter exactly as you did. Now that I've cleaned my tank, I only change filters once a season so it's hard to justify installing the pump. I do make sure to keep my tank full as much as possible to avoid condensation forming inside it.
Andy C&C 40 Peregrine On Fri, Jun 30, 2017 at 8:48 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Damian! > > Congrats on the new boat!! I don't have an answer for you but very > interested in the conversation!! > > You should think about joining the Sabre list serve too. Its pretty > active. Not as much as this but, still active. I joined them during my > boat shopping because The Sabre 38MKII was on my short list. I just stayed > on because there is some great info and conversations over there! they're > on a yahoo group > > Danny > > > > On 6/30/2017 7:53 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote: > > I have some questions for your collective wisdom: what is the best fuel > filter setup? > > First of all, I have to admit I just bought a Sabre 38 (1986). We are en > route home from Essex CT to Bass Harbor ME. We were going through fairly > rough seas yesterday entering Buzzards Bay and the engine died - backed off > on revs over a minute or so, then stopped. Restart would not go to high > revs, and died. I figured it was the fuel filter, but we took a TowBoat US > tow into New Bedford rather than mess around. I changed the filter and all > seems fine. > > The filter is a Racor 2010. Engine is a Westerbeke 33. Diesel tank was > half full. > > It turns out the PO had installed a 2 micron primary (there is no > secondary). It looked fine - so no major crud. I have a 10 micron installed > now, as I had a couple of these as spares. The local yard recommend 30 > micron. > > I could not figure out how to bleed the air, so I filled the housing to > the top with diesel, and poured more in the top before inserting and > tightening the top screw. I would not fancy doing that in rough seas. > > So questions: > > 1) What micron rating filter? > > 2) Are there better new designs? I see Racor have spin-off models. Are > these easier to change and bleed on the fly? > > 3) Should I have primary and secondary filters? > > 4) How best to bleed the air? > > 5) The Westerbeke W33 manual says it's self bleeding and essentially not > to mess with the pump. What do you know of this? > > Thanks, > > Damian > > Damian Greene > 1982 C&C 34 Ghost (for sale) > 1986 Sabre 38 Serenity (new name TBD) > Bass Harbor ME > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
