The springs in the solid vang (or hydraulic pressure, or bent fiberglass in the case of a boomkicker) supports the boom. Tensioning or easing the control line on the vang controls luff tension – easing the line induces twist.
The topping lift has two main purposes: It screws up your tacks in light air when it wraps around the backstay It makes money for your sailmaker when it abrades the leach of your mainsail And you don’t need to leave the cockpit to adjust the rigid vang as you do when you invariably forget to adjust the topping lift before actually going sailing. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 02, 2017 9:06 AM To: C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift. I've considered getting rid of mine. Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to it. A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can induce twist...if desired. The boat I race on has never had a topping lift. Josh On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella blue”. The documentation is outstanding. Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago. Gary 30-1 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Brian Davis via CnC-List Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Brian Davis <brianwdavis...@gmail.com <mailto:brianwdavis...@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging Thank you, Josh and John. I really appreciate the detailed replies. If you have pictures as well please email me some directly. Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980. I've researched her numbers and also have some of the original paper work. Paul Eugenio who is on this list also helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen his website you should. (link below) I actually use it as a reference for other projects that I've done and plan to do. He does an amazing job documenting his work. http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Hey Brian, I'm back again. You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye splice with closed thimble). If the length is in question then use the halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and figure the length. You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom has room to be lifted. Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast. Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes. Mine is cleated on the boom just forward of the dodger. Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like my 37+. 1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 but also brought with it characteristics of 40. Is there a chance that yours is a 37? Looks like we all answered your question. Any others? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: Greetings everyone, I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38. I have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully educated on the terms. The only thing holding up the boom now is the old rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck. When I bought her the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was off and stowed below and there is only a connector on one end and bare wire on the other. Not sure how it connects to the boom...etc. I see a cheek block that I need to replace on the boom near the mast. I want to rig it the proper and best way, but I don't have any good drawings and just looking for some guidance. Regards, -- Brian Davis 1980 C&C Landfall 38 "Nina" Southeast Florida <https://docs.google.com/uc?id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LcHZVUWJZOFptWndLaDd6UjYtN1F4cDlXTk1R&export=download> <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=oa-3108-a> Virus-free. <https://www.avast.com/en-us/lp-safe-emailing-3108-a?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail&utm_term=oa-3108-a> www.avast.com _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! -- Brian Davis 1980 C&C Landfall 38 "Nina" Southeast Florida <https://docs.google.com/uc?export=download&id=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LYklSNlB4cFM5UWs&revid=0BxaAN3B_Cl8LVUNlN1orQTlTc05OdzFHMXV6WFM2R281S1EwPQ> _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
