Tom, Dyneema is very slippery, so a splice is best. Uncovered Dyneema is so easy to splice even I can do it. You taper one fid lenght, bury a total of 3 and lock stitch it.
Joel On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 10:50 AM, Tom Lochhaas via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thank you all for your suggestions. I have decided to replace my > wire-to-rope halyard with 3/8 Samson MLX (doublebraid cover over Dyneema > core). Now my only question is whether to strip to the core for the "wire > section" of the new halyard. For me, there is still the sheave question. > Several of you have said your existing sheaves took a larger rope, others > replaced the sheave. I do believe my 1980 LF38 main halyard sheave was > intended for wire only. I don't believe I can show the photo here on this > list, but I have placed it in a public Dropbox link (below) if anyone is > interested to see it. The close-up shows the existing 3/16 wire in the > sheave. Very careful measurements of this and other photos at different > levels of magnification and angles indicate the sheave width (at the top > inside - without jumping up on the "rim" of the sheave) is slightly less > than double the diameter of the 3/16 wire. To me that suggests that even a > 3/8 rope could squeeze down into the sheave under tension and cause a lot > of friction or chafing. Seems best to strip to the core (stripping to core > said to be ok with this line) for the section from inside the mast to the > sail head. Comments? Dyneema at this size is supposed to be >8000 lb > strength, so I think even a knot on the shackle wouldn't weaken it to any > dangerous level. (I have no splicing skill.) Double bowline for slick line > (tightened up under winch tension) or other suggestion? Thanks. Photo at > https://www.dropbox.com/s/gb7cg1b9rovjz56/DSC_0150cropped.jpg?dl=0 > Tom > > On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 9:22 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> ---------- Forwarded message ---------- >> From: Dave S <syerd...@gmail.com> >> To: "C&c Stus List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Cc: >> Bcc: >> Date: Sun, 14 May 2017 20:46:24 -0400 >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard >> This is exactly what I did as well. No problem at all. >> >> Dave >> >> >> >> --------- Forwarded message ---------- >> From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> >> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >> Cc: >> Bcc: >> Date: Fri, 12 May 2017 20:12:03 -0400 >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Messenger line to wire halyard >> >> I replaced the wire-rope halyards on both my 25 and my 38 with all rope. >> No problem with the sheeves on either. And I stitched a messemger line to >> the end of the rope, pulled out the old halyard, stitched the messenger to >> the end of the new halyard, and pulled it down through the mast. Easy-Peesy. >> >> >> >> And as a bonus, if you still have the oversized halyards made of yacht >> braid, you can switch to a modern line and go down a size or two on the >> diameter. >> >> >> >> Rick Brass >> >> *Imzadi *C&C 38 mk 2 >> >> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1 >> >> Washington, NC >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > -- Joel 301 541 8551
_______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
