Do you have an internal track for the conduit? Or even are you using a conduit for the wires.?
I completely rewired my mast last winter. Had just bought the boat in the spring of 2015, and spent the whole summer listening to the wiring slapping around inside. So pulled it all out, along with all the lights, spreaders and rigging. Basically ended up with a piece of aluminium that I then sanded and painted, but thats another story. The problem was how to get the new wiring, inside a conduit, and secured. Read everything could find but didnt want to drill holes In the mast, use tie wraps, or foam. Decided that I wanted the weight of the cable harness to be supported by anything but the cable connections, and knots. On the top mast plate, I drilled and tapped a hole with ½ NPT, and this would be the primary place to pull the harness and leave it supported from. Purchased a stainless steel chinese finger puzzle type puller from an electrical wholesaler. This would end up hanging on an eyebolt from the ½ npt plug that eventually got screwed in the pulling hole. Then ran thin leaders from mast top, steaming light, spreaders, etc. to the bottom. For a conduit, bought many 6ft lengths of white CPVC (?) pipe. (Total mast height was <> 50ft I think) Used ¾ from the Top to the steaming light, and 1 from there down as the cable bundle got thicker. Bought very small sail sliders, which were shaved down a bit to fit the track, and each 6ft section of pipe was notched to take one slider, which was glued and locked with a tab. The other end of the conduit pipe had a coupling glued to it, ready for section 2. With the harness laid on the ground the first pipe section was slid over the cable, the SS cable puller secured over it, and the a leader attached. The slider slipped into the track and pulled from the top, one pipe length. Second section was slipped over the same way, and after ensuring radial alignment of the sliders, it was glued to the first section. Repeat as necessary till done. Obviously there are pipe tees involved at the steaming and spreader heights to allow cable to go to those areas. At the bottom, my cables exit a large hole to Port about 2 above the base. It is hard to explain in words, and certainly had lots of learning and mistakes as I went. In all we had the entire conduit and cable up and down about 5 times till was happy with it. Fortunately was able to pull the entire assembled system out and onto the roadway at the Marina, with a few traffic cones. At the same time, ran 3 new halyards, and spent hours ensuring they would have a fair run with no interference of the conduit, or chafing on other internals. Did add some pipe insulation around the conduit, about 4 long every 6 ft, as I was concerned about the conduit flopping side to side with rolling, and stressing the sail sliders. Have number of photos, but do not know how to share them here. If you are interested, let me know and will email them. I decided to hang the conduit as opposed to trying to secure it along the length (The drill and pop river method) because I was concerned, among other things, about the thermal expansion difference between aluminium and PVC. My math said up to 1/4. Sorry for the long story, but it turned out to be a very worthwhile project, as a) it is silent, b) it needed rewiring anyway c) I wont have to touch it again in my lifetime. Good luck John Landfall 38 From: Ron Ricci [mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com] Sent: April-12-17 8:29 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: 'kelly petew' Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice Pete, I rewired my mast several years ago. Since my lights are all LEDs, the current draw is very low and #18 is fine. I used Alpha 1897C SL005 where I needed two conductors (such as Windex light) and Alpha 1898C 3C for three conductors (such as foredeck/steaming light). These cables are PVC jacketed and have tinned copper conductors. To me having cables is better than individual conductors and these cables are smaller than multiple conductor boat cable. If you have a rats nest of wires, Id consider pulling everything out. If possible leave a wire for a messenger or get a snake. Good luck, Ron Ron Ricci S/V Patriot C&C 37+ Bristol, RI <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly petew via CnC-List Sent: Monday, April 10, 2017 5:02 PM To: cnc-list Cc: kelly petew Subject: Stus-List Mast Re-Wire -- Need Advice Hello Listers, First, some background -- Earlier this year, I had the mast extracted from Siren Song, my 30-2. The rigger has completed his work, replacing the rod rigging and fittings, and rebuilding my Harken furler. Also, I just finished painting the mast and spreaders with a one-part paint. Now, I want to rewire the mast. Preparatory to the extraction, I labeled the wires, marked fittings and blocks, and took MANY pics on my tablet. I have removed the old VHF cabling, but I was unsuccessful in replacing it with LMR-400 [.405" dia.]. For other 30-2 owners, I found [the hard way] that it was too stiff and too big to fit. I could only get it about 40% down the mast before it became hopelessly stucked. Therefore, I have removed it, and re-ordered original type of cabling [rg-8x, .25" diameter]. I was hoping to get the enhance performance from the lmr cabling, but it won't happen, unfortunately. I will replace the vhf antenna. Now, I'm planning to replace electrical wires as well as light fixtures. In doing a preliminary inspection, I found a "rat's nest" of wiring just below the mast's exit hole, which lines up with the underside of the deck when the mast is in the boat. It looks as though excess wiring was simply pushed DOWN into the mast, and over time sagged further down [but still beyond arm's length from mast's bottom]. Any "tips and tricks", including the best tools to use for re-wiring the electricals will be greatly appreciated, i.e., extracting the old stuff and installing the new. Fair Winds, Pete W. Siren Song '91 C&C 30-2 Deltaville, Va.
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