Mike — part of the reason to use a backing block is to make sure you have a 
flat spot in the rounded hull to mount the transducer; it’s not so much for 
reinforcement.  It also gives you more of the shaft of the transducer to seal 
with whatever goop you use as a sealant; I use LifeSeal when I install 
transducers.  Goop up the flange and bottom several threads of the transducer, 
and HAND-tighten the nut inside on top of the rubber gasket; then come back a 
day later and tighten the nut a bit more, if it will easily turn.

If your location is really flat, go ahead and mount without a block; but I 
would recommend using the gasket from the manufacturer.  Then if your boat 
sinks and you can prove you followed Airmar’s instructions, you can sue them…   
:^)

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 4:45 PM, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi gang,
> 
> Last fall I wrote about removing my depth sounder as water was leaking in.  
> It was a traditional external depth sounder with a mushroom head.  It was 
> held in place with a locking nut that screwed down against a wood backing 
> block. 
> 
> I dug out the rotten wood and ground down all the glass that had been used to 
> hold it in place. The installation was really overkill.  I wasn't able to 
> remove the transducer without stripping the threads, so I bought a new one.
> 
> I now have a smooth, pretty flat surface around the transducer hole. I bought 
> the same transducer (Raymarine, i.e. Airmar,)
> 
> So here are my questions:
> 
> 1. I have made up a fibreglass backing block, but do I really need a backing 
> block given that there really aren't any stresses on the transducer?  It's 
> not like a through-hull where you are opening and closing a valve.
> 
> 2. The new transducer came with a rubber washer that sits on the inside and 
> the locking nut is supposed to be hand tightened down onto it. Is this really 
> a good idea? Won't the rubber shrink a bit with age?
> 
> 3. For my sealant, is there any difference between 3M 4200 and Sikaflex 291 
> sealant/adhesive? I'm not sure if the Sikaflex is suitable for underwater 
> applications. 
> 
> My current thought is to use the backing plate given that I've made it up 
> already and skip rubber washer.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike
> Atacama. 33mkii
> Toronto 

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