There is no coolant.  It's raw water cooled. Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 1, 2017, at 7:10 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Depends on where the leak in the head gasket is.  If it's between a coolant 
> passage and a cylinder, then you would see the evidence in the exhaust.  If 
> the gasket leak is between a coolant passage and an oil return, then you 
> would see it in the oil.  The best advice is to watch the coolant level 
> carefully.  If you see it going down over time, then you need to find where 
> it is going.  If the coolant level is not going down, then probably what you 
> are seeing is harmless steam and not white smoke.
> 
> Gary
> 
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 7:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> The 1GM10 is fresh water cooled with no heat exchanger. I'm really hoping 
>> it's not a head gasket. Would there not be water in the oil sump if the 
>> gasket were blown?
>> 
>> Brent
>> 27-5
>> Wild Rover. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Apr 1, 2017, at 5:06 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Not to be an alarmist, but white smoke usually means a coolant leak, such 
>>> as a blown head gasket.  Take a sniff of the exhaust.  If it has a sweet 
>>> smell, you've got an internal coolant leak.  Is your coolant level going 
>>> down, with no apparent leak?
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> S/V Kaylarah
>>> '90 C&C 37+
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>> 
>>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 5:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>> You can remove the injector from the block.  Turn it upside down, 
>>>> reconnect to the fuel pipe, turn the engine over until the injector starts 
>>>> to spray.  Pop, pop, pop.  Watch the spray pattern.  It should be a clean, 
>>>> wide cone pattern, equally aerated, fine mist.  This is a test you should 
>>>> do before you send it to a shop.
>>>> 
>>>> If you want to attempt to clean it yourself you can unscrew the 2 halves 
>>>> of the injector, remove the spring and valve needle.  Clean all the pieces 
>>>> with something like carb cleaner, berrymans b12 chemtool, or toluine.  You 
>>>> have to be careful not to scratch any of the internal components.  A 
>>>> hardwood scraper can be fashioned or paint stir stick or tooth picks.  
>>>> When you satisfied, reassemble the same way it came apart.  Re-test for 
>>>> spray pattern.  Re-install.
>>>> 
>>>> While you have the injectors out I like to test compression and clean the 
>>>> precombustion chambers.  They can get pretty well covered with carbon 
>>>> which will make them harder and harder to remove.  You'll probably want to 
>>>> replace the thin copper ring between the two halves.  There's also a lead 
>>>> gasket and a copper foil disc which go between the injector and the 
>>>> precombustion chamber.
>>>> 
>>>> Josh Muckley
>>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>>> Yanmar 3HM35F
>>>> Solomons, MD 
>>>> 
>>>>> On Mar 31, 2017 10:06 PM, "Brent Driedger via CnC-List" 
>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>>> Greetings all.
>>>>> 
>>>>> The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
>>>>> complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the 
>>>>> filter in the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean 
>>>>> the tank.
>>>>> But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector 
>>>>> spray pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to 
>>>>> extract and clean it or replace it.
>>>>> Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Brent Driedger
>>>>> 27-5
>>>>> Wild Rover
>>>>> Lake Winnipeg.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> 
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> 
> _______________________________________________
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