Depends on which filter you’re talking about.
The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the Betas) are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the engine, you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and crank the engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit of throttle, but it will start. If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38. As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if you have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this little filter. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com> Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com> Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. The manual says it has a continuous bleed system. What it doesn’t say is what that means. Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws? If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system. I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous Yanmar after changing filters. Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 C&C 34+ New London, CT
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