I made soft shackles for Pegathy's jib sheets. They work great. Don't hang up
on the shrouds like bowlines do. I used 3/8 hollow braid high tech line. Used
this technique -
Better Soft Shackle -
Use the line lengths and mark measurements they compute for you. You could use
smaller than 3/8 line. Took the better part of an hour to make the first one.
Then I made more for the spin sheets, spin halyard, anything I could think of.
The more you make the less time it takes. Much better than heavy metal. Unless
you like that kind of music.
Dan Sheer - Pegathy LF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco
|
| |
Better Soft Shackle
This soft shackle is more secure and easier to use than the most common
version. | |
|
From: "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 5:33 PM
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 131, Issue 50
Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Rewiring mast and anchor light.. (Steve Thomas)
2. Re: Rewiring mast and anchor light.. (syerd...@gmail.com)
3. Re: C&C35 Mk1 Compass (Dennis C.)
4. Fastening Jib Sheets (Chuck Saur)
5. Re: Fastening Jib Sheets (Dennis C.)
6. Re: Fastening Jib Sheets (Joel Aronson)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 15:34:47 -0500
From: Steve Thomas <sthom...@bellnet.ca>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..
Message-ID: <20161211153447.D4LW1.17128.root@toroondcmxzfep01>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
I also worked for a company that made wiring harnesses once upon a time, but we
were mass producing them for cars. There too, all connections were crimped, but
there is one big difference between the OEM approach and the usual aftermarket
stuff sold for use with hand tools. The aftermarket connectors usually come
with an insulating sleeve that is intended to be left in place while doing the
crimp. I have found this practice to yield unreliable and unpredictable
connections. I have purchased a half a dozen different crimping tools, some
with a compound action and multiple interchangeable jaws, and have not found a
reliable combination yet.
On the other hand, a correctly sized bare metal connector matched with the
correct crimp dies yields a secure connection every time. There just isn't any
comparison in reliability in my experience.
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
C&C36
Merritt Island, FL
---- G Collins via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Dave, if you soldered a crimped connection in the harness shop I worked at the
Quality Assurance folks would hang your head on a light pole in the parking lot
as a warning to others! We built wire harnesses for tanks, helicopters, and
fighter jets.
I think the attached .pdf is small enough to sneak through the server, I draw
your attention to the 2nd last page.
As to sourcing terminals, Digikey is a good and reasonably priced source if you
are buying quantities. If you only need 4 then not so great.
A good quality crimp tool is key.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 16:06:21 -0500
From: syerd...@gmail.com
To: G Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
Cc: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..
Message-ID: <5c3855d8-7c3a-4517-82a3-619202bf7...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Lol - tough QA team! What happened if you were late for work?
Good doc, I probably read in in my AMP training in..... '86 - my first job, we
were an Amp shop. And yes, we (later job) soldered and potted the amphenol and
cannon connectors, crimped (only) the Reel fed terminals, heat shrunk
everything, incl fancy moulded boots. (Aircraft landing gear parts and some
other small contracts I don't remember.) My point was more about the slick
professional appearance of the tightly heatshrinked connection, not the
soldered crimp. For sure I would not solder then crimp.
Agreed on the tool, and I know very few non-industry people with decent crimp
tools. The tool I have is better than most, (panduit) but is not a
controlled-cycle tool with precise, fitted dies, etc. This is why I prefer an
uninsulated closed barrel terminal done as mentioned, and why I don't use
pre-insulated terminals if I have others on hand. (given the less than perfect
crimp, I doubt the crimp-nuance in the doc is relevant. )
Anyway, hair-splitting I suppose in this application.
Dave.
Sent from my iPad
> On Dec 11, 2016, at 1:58 PM, G Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> Dave, if you soldered a crimped connection in the harness shop I worked at
> the Quality Assurance folks would hang your head on a light pole in the
> parking lot as a warning to others! We built wire harnesses for tanks,
> helicopters, and fighter jets.
>
> I think the attached .pdf is small enough to sneak through the server, I draw
> your attention to the 2nd last page.
>
> As to sourcing terminals, Digikey is a good and reasonably priced source if
> you are buying quantities. If you only need 4 then not so great.
>
> A good quality crimp tool is key.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2016-12-11 2:13 AM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
>> Flanged has the ends bent up and locking has a narrowing of the space
>> between the fork's tines that means the terminal has to be clicked into
>> place. Either works for me. Fred mentions that he prefers rings because
>> they wont fall off shoudl the screw loosen. I prefer locking forks because
>> I wont fumble and drop the removed terminal block screw in the bilge! (its
>> the kind of thing I do...) and sometimes the terminal screws are staked into
>> the terminal block and can't be removed.
>>
>> Ancor stuff is fine but remember they just repackage for the marine market
>> and there are lots of industrial options out there if you have access or
>> want to bother looking around a bit. The best (most rugged) hand crimp-able
>> terminals are non insulated terminals that have a second sleeve of metal
>> over the crimp sleeve. (i forget the industry term at the moment...) The
>> self encapsulating insulated terminals Rick mentions are nice. but I think
>> that crimping, then soldering a quality non-insulated terminal then strain
>> relieving with heatshrink (to alleviate the solder hard spot that wicks up
>> the conductor) is the best solution of all, and looks like it was done by a
>> mil qualified harness shop. (past life...) This will outlast the boat and
>> owner and never oxidize or give trouble. Doesn't take much longer.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
>> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc:
>> Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500
>> Subject: ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
>> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc:
>> Date: Sat, 10 Dec 2016 15:56:07 -0500
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rewiring mast and anchor light..
>> Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the ?bent up? ends ? I
>> think they are called ?flanged?.
>>
>>
>>
>> And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are
>> the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and
>> keep out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC..
>> Good point, Fred. The forked terminals I used have the ?bent up? ends ? I
>> think they are called ?flanged?.
>>
>>
>>
>> And all the crimp terminals I use when doing wiring projects on the boat are
>> the Anchor terminals with heat shrink tube and glue to cover the crimp and
>> keep out moisture. Seems the best policy to stop problems with corrosion.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> <electricalTerminals.pdf>
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 15:20:34 -0600
From: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C35 Mk1 Compass
Message-ID:
<canir+yuaxgoehm4t4jwuasknwngcwsy5jaedu-xrrkovtn7...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Just as a side note on 35-1 compasses, when I bought Touche', it had Saturn
Gemini compasses mounted on the port and starboard cockpit coamings by the
big double foot blocks. Touche' was seriously raced for a few years and
the compasses were right in front of the helmsman sitting on the side of
the cockpit.
They were crazed and useless. Since Touche' has a Nexus instrument system
with flux gate compass and displays, I replaced them with inspection
ports. See here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsX0dGcEV2Mm1QNUE
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Dec 11, 2016 at 9:50 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Regardless of the brand of pedestal, you can purchase a binnacle mount
> compass as long as it has a 4" or 5" compass card. The size of the compass
> card determines the OD of the compass housing which in turn has a
> standardized mounting bolt pattern.
> If you are on a limited budget, Edson sells something called a compass
> cylinder, a plastic housing in which you can mount a Ritchie Helmsman flush
> mount compass which would be cheaper than a binnacle mount.
> Get a good compass that can be serviced periodically by a reputable
> compass specialist. Buy it once and keep it in good shape and it will be a
> reliable tool long after the electronics on the boat become obsolete.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram MA
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 11, 2016, at 9:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> It's probably a Morch pedestal. Look for a stylized "M" on the shaft
> nut. Also, I believe the pedestal tube is 3" whereas the Edson pedestals
> may be 4 inch (Not 100% sure on that). Ian Morch, Belleville Marine, was
> associated with C&C at its inception.
>
> To your question, the compass mount should be standard so Ritchie,
> Danforth, etc. will all have a compass that fits. Measure the hole pattern
> to be sure.
>
> Choose a compass based on your preference of detail on the card. If you
> want an easily read compass, choose one with large numerals and little
> detail. If you want a more elegant compass, there are ones with lots of
> detail but are harder to read.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sat, Dec 10, 2016 at 12:53 PM, jcn--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know the brand and model of compass that would have been
>> installed in the pedestal of a 1971 C&c35? Just recently bought the boat
>> and the compass is missing. Next question is where would be the best place
>> to get one?
>> Cheers. Jim
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 17:10:51 -0500
From: Chuck Saur <cssau...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets
Message-ID:
<CAJz9xOqPAd2-O-wp9A+meNgv92+RZ5UurhjmmeFRNRRQcH=8...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Hey gang...snow here and need a diversion. I'm surfing for deals on line
for my jib (genoa) sheets, and wondered if there is anything new or
improved anyone is doing when tying on the sheets. I''ve been using the
ol' bowline...but have used the butterfly (I think that's what a loop on a
continuous line is called). I have heard of using Dyneema...lightweight
shackles...etc. Anyone have some cool experience/suggestions?
*Chuck Saur*
C&C 35-3 Morning Sky
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 16:24:34 -0600
From: "Dennis C." <capt...@gmail.com>
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets
Message-ID:
<canir+ytt8aumnblkr-isp7ag7hec5c3lkcb-hzyegtumyk9...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
For Touche', I bought VPC sheets with eyes on each end from apsltd and
fasten them with soft shackles. See:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsMU9xOXBVd3F5Slk
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Dec 11, 2016 at 4:10 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hey gang...snow here and need a diversion. I'm surfing for deals on line
> for my jib (genoa) sheets, and wondered if there is anything new or
> improved anyone is doing when tying on the sheets. I''ve been using the
> ol' bowline...but have used the butterfly (I think that's what a loop on a
> continuous line is called). I have heard of using Dyneema...lightweight
> shackles...etc. Anyone have some cool experience/suggestions?
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
> C&C 35-3 Morning Sky
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2016 22:32:08 +0000
From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets
Message-ID:
<cael16p_qmduftmo_c1a9njcqr+rrxx8eu0itcn3y2g7smif...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
Chuck
Think you mean a luggage tag or cowhitch.
VPC is stiff. If money were no object I'd use Salsa line. StaSet is cheap
but it will stretch in a breeze. Just need to take an extra crank on the
winch.
Joel
On Sun, Dec 11, 2016 at 5:25 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> For Touche', I bought VPC sheets with eyes on each end from apsltd and
> fasten them with soft shackles. See:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsMU9xOXBVd3F5Slk
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sun, Dec 11, 2016 at 4:10 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey gang...snow here and need a diversion. I'm surfing for deals on line
> for my jib (genoa) sheets, and wondered if there is anything new or
> improved anyone is doing when tying on the sheets. I''ve been using the
> ol' bowline...but have used the butterfly (I think that's what a loop on a
> continuous line is called). I have heard of using Dyneema...lightweight
> shackles...etc. Anyone have some cool experience/suggestions?
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
> C&C 35-3 Morning Sky
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
>
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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