What do you mean the ACR kicks on and lets the volts keep climbing?  ANY
charger should work just the same as your alternator.  With your higher
power/current chargers you'll start having the option of multiple charge
banks.  You can use these, or not.  If you use the multi bank option then
both your banks will receive charge from the charger all the time.  If not
then the ACR will control when the second bank gets charged.

With a large enough charger it is possible to exceed the recommended charge
current of the start battery.  As I recall you have AGMs all around.  So
30% or Ahr should be your charge limit.  A 100Ahr starting battery would be
limited to 30 amps.  Theoretically if you discharged your starting battery
far enough and had lets say a 60amp charger then 60 amps would be pumped
into the starting battery until the 13.4-ish volts was reached and the ACR
"kicked on".  At this point the 60 amps is being shared with all of your
batteries.  IIRC you're pushing upwards of 500Ah?  So 150amps max charge
rate?  Now your 60 amp charger is well within the margins.  The real
question is, how often are you going to be discharging your starting
battery to the point that it can receive 60 amp of current before it
charges to 13.4v?  I would say it is extremely rare.

So now you are at an impasse.  Do you stay safe and prevent the remore
possibility of exceeding the max charge rate by getting a smaller charger?
Or do you size the charger according to your wallet (because you're not
gonna exceed the rate of your house batteries)?  Or do you double your
wiring and run a double bank setup and forget about the ACR?

I have ProMariner pNautic 1260, 12v, 60 amp, up to 3 banks, and I'm very
satisfied.  It is absolutely bomb proof.  A single exception to my
satisfaction is that the remote display panel is not capable of programming
the charger or initiating an equalize charge.  The need to program is rare
and usually only happens during install or battery change out to a new
chemistry.  The equalize shouldn't be a concern for you since you have
AGM.  They make equally high quality lower power units.

Another way to consider you power needs is when you take a slip and shore
power, how long do you have to wait before the batteries are fully
charged.  Lets say you have 600Ah with the house and starting batteries
combined.  Lets say you only discharged them to 50%, 300Ah.  You'll need no
less than 30 amps for 10hours.  That's really rough math considering that
it doesn't properly account for the absorption phase.  If you're cruising
and pull in around 7 or 8pm but need to get an early start in the morning
at 5 or 6am then you'll only just barely be full charged.  Probably not
done with the absorption phase.

YMMV

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 9, 2016 5:30 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Finally coming out of my depression (about the boating season being over —
> not the election) and am seeking a recommendation for a good on board
> battery charger.
>
> Here’s the rub — I’m learning that most of the smart chargers out there,
> like a ProSport, won’t work with my system because I have a house bank and
> an engine bank — and when over 13 volts is detected, the ACR kicks in and
> charges both banks, throwing off the ProSport and letting the volts just
> keep climbing.
>
> Anyone now of a good wall-mount charger that will just kick in 13-14V or
> so when operating? It won’t be used often — just the rare occasions when
> I’m plugged in to shore power.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>
>
>
>
>
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