Marek,
the worry is back-filling through the exhaust. if the engine is not
running there is a very real risk of water going in through the exhaust
manifold because there is no pressure from the exhaust of the running
engine pushing the water out. It is the same issue if you are having
trouble starting the engine and you let the starter continue to turn
everything for an extended time without the engine firing. It is a well
documented issue on the Moyer Marine forums. The cooling pump itself is
what pumps the water in during difficulty starting while turning the
starter.
Danny
On 10/11/2016 10:42 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
You have to connect the shopvac _after_ the water pump. If your water
pump is any good it will not allow anything to pass through it (when
it Is not turning). And if it does, you have to change the impeller.
Marek
*From:* Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List
*Sent:* Tuesday, October 11, 2016 07:25
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Kevin Deluzio
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4
My first haul-out with a new-to-me 1980 C&C30 with an Atomic 4 as
well. I like the idea of using the shop-vac to blow the water out. Do
you connect that to the same location - at water intake hose
disconnected from seacock ?
Kevin
*From:*Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
*Subject:**Re: Stus-List Winterizing an Atomic 4*
*Date:*October 10, 2016 at 10:27:53 PM EDT
*To:*"C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
You can plumb in auxiliary suctions that will let you draw glycol
straight out of the jug. If you haul the boat you can stuff a tygon
hose up the through hull and beer bong the glycol into the engine.
Or you can try the seaflush. I have one and it works, though it
might be a bit over priced. I like using the shop vac to blow the
water out. That may actually be sufficient. I am cautious though
and carefully consider the possibility of stagnant loops of water.
So, despite "blowing out" the engine, I also run glycol. The nice
thing is that I don't have to worry as much about the water diluting
the glycol. It takes way less glycol to provide freeze protection.
http://www.seaflush.com/sea-flush-1/
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 10, 2016 9:50 PM, "RANDY via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
My first haul-out with my 30-1 (purchased in January) is coming
up in a few weeks, sadly. The PO advised me to just run
antifreeze through the raw-water cooling system until it comes
out the exhaust. My main question is how to get the antifreeze
into the raw water intake. I've seen a gadget made from a toilet
plunger with a garden hose plumbed into the rubber cone, that can
be held over the raw water intake with the other end of the hose
in a bucket of antifreeze. Any other recommended techniques?
Any other general tips on properly winterizing an A4?
Thanks,
Randy
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_______________________________________________
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
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