Of course, because I’m a ham-fisted emailer, I linked to the wrong item. This <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2015/03/week-seven-almost-ready-to-paint-hull.html> may make more sense…
Confusedly, Dave Godwin 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin Reedville - Chesapeake Bay Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> > On Aug 29, 2016, at 5:47 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > I would second Dave's suggestion to NOT use epoxy on interior wood work. I > did that in the past on my cabin sole’s first rebuild and for the second set > <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2015/03/paint-goes-on.html> of flooring I > simply used 4-5 coats of Awlgrip’s Awlwood product and finished it off with a > coat or two of matte varnish (the first time I used gloss varnish and didn’t > care for it…). That said, I did use epoxy for the sides and undersides, where > it would not be seen, for water intrusion purposes. > > Check out Awlwood. Pretty nice product. > > Best, > Dave Godwin > 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin > Reedville - Chesapeake Bay > Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> >> On Aug 29, 2016, at 2:55 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: >> >> Imo- I think the best reason not to use epoxy on the companionway steps is >> that it is probably not really necessary, especially on teak. Second best >> reason is cost, third is repairability vs varnish. >> Yer basic general purpose epoxy is too thick in my opinion for easy >> varnishing, (btdt several times), and epoxy degrades in uv. (Requires >> varnish anyway to protect, so you'll still be varnishing). >> If epoxy is necessary, There are formulations available, used on bar tables >> and the like, which are better suited for being used as a brush-on coating. >> >> Also, there are plenty of other brands than WEST, that work fine. >> Composites Canada has a good selection for those north of the border. >> >> Dave - multi-epoxied as is his 33-2 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Message: 8 >> Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2016 18:40:48 +0000 >> From: "Hoyt, Mike" <mike.h...@impgroup.com <mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com>> >> To: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com <mailto:stevanpla...@gmail.com>>, >> "cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>" >> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps >> Message-ID: >> <169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com >> <mailto:169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f169...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" >> >> Steve >> >> In the past my friend Andy had great success with varnish over West epoxy on >> their former C&C 25 Dry Red. I tried to do the same on our former Niagara >> 26 Full Tilt 2 and always had sags etc in the epoxy. >> >> This past winter I used the 105 resin / 207 slow hardener on the advice of >> Andy and others. Since the sole was comprised of a single sheet of ? inch >> teak and holly that cost over $600 I wanted it protected and to look good. >> There were no sags or obvious bubbles. I did a light sand between coats as >> well. Note that this was in my garage with temperatures around 50 degrees >> Fahrenheit or 10 Celsius. >> >> It was also suggested to me not to use the gloss version of Epiphanes in >> favour of their matte finish. I really liked the end result >> >> Mike >> Persistence >> Halifax >> Sent from my iPhone >> _______________________________________________ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like >> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions >> are greatly appreciated! > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated!
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