I did CPES for two coats, then minwax satin clear urethane for the stairs. I liked doing the stairs so much, that I ended up doing galley and nav station area, but just two coats of urethane. It came out like a new interior. Outside stuff like cockpit table and grab rails, I put epifanes after CPES. I think if I get around to it, I will do the entire interior with minwax satin clear this winter. It will definitely bring the boat value up.
If you get bubbles, scuff them off with 400 grit or 320. It will teach you to take your time next time. Varnishing is a test of patience. You cannot cut corners. There was a lengthy thread on cruisers forum about this same topic. The consensus was that CPES is just a thinned version of epoxy and it does not add anything more. The truth is, I wanted to get rid of my old cans of CPES which I had for years so I figured I get rid of them somewhere useful. But CPES is slow by nature. If I had to do it over again, I would just thin west systems the first coat or two so that it penetrates better. And definitely either slow hardener or do it on a cool dry night. Few folks on the forum were arguing that teak cannot be varnished b/c it releases oils. But how do you get the finish look on the cockpit table? Petar Horvatic Sundowner 76 C&C 38MkII Newport RI From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 29, 2016 2:33 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Stevan Plavsa Subject: Re: Stus-List Refinishing companionway steps Did you use the slow hardener to avoid air bubbles? I tried refinishing my cockpit table this summer but I was short on time -- I have bubbles. I didn't even get to the varnish part. Right now the table is just coated in three coats of epoxy and it's in the cockpit. I'm going to give it another go over the winter but need to learn how to avoid the tiny little air bubbles in the epoxy. Cheers, Steve Suhana, C&C 32 Toronto
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