No expert, but…. I put rings on the side of the mast – about six inches above 
the deck – for the reaching strut, but don’t have one and never have used one. 
The Phrf rules don’t allow you to attach them to anywhere but the mast, by the 
way. I have not found a need for a strut, simply because we have rather short 
races. My spinnaker is large and round and high-shouldered, so it doesn’t reach 
all that well, but with the twings I can control where the sheet and guy rest 
against the stanchions. I believe the rules on reaching struts is they are not 
supposed to go outside the width of the boat. That’s why I don’t bother. If I 
did more long races I would want to explore a strut and put the rings a little 
higher.

 

As far as the turning blocks… mine are ratchet blocks - on the rail just in 
front of the attachment point of the pulpit. I put a small cam cleat on the 
flat part of the cockpit surround nearby, so we could have the spinnaker sheets 
held tightly against the side of the boat until we were ready to use them. I 
have a winches at the original location and others about a foot forward and use 
the forward ones for the genoa and the aft for the chute. Often we pull the 
sheets off of these winches and use the ones on top of the cabin. I upgraded 
those to Anderson 16’s.

 

I have twings which are attached about two feet ahead of the gates on each 
side. These have an opening block at the end of a line about six feet long 
(cute little snatch blocks from West) and a small turning block at the rail. 
The line leads back to cleats right behind the gates. I know some others have 
the cleat further forward, but I wanted someone from the cockpit to be able to 
pull them in or let them out while gybing.

 

I have a similar downhaul setup as you, except I run the line through fairleads 
on the sides of the dorade boxes and up to the cabin top – to a clutch.  It is 
next to the topping lift clutch, so a cockpit person can control the ups and 
downs of the pole.

 

Gary

#593

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 1:35 AM
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net>
Subject: Stus-List Leading Spinnaker Sheets on a 30-1

 

30-1 Owners and Experts-

 

Would you mind telling me how you lead spinnaker sheets on a 30-1?  
Specifically, where do you position your turning blocks, and where do you 
attach the inboard end of your reaching strut?

 

I'm getting ready to race in the spinnaker division of my club, so I'm trying 
to nail down my spinnaker rigging plans.  I've got snatch blocks to shackle to 
the rail as turning blocks for the spinnaker sheets, but don't know exactly 
where to position them fore and aft.  I assume aft of the aft lifeline gate 
brace, which would seem to necessitate a reaching strut for wind angles less 
than say 135 degrees, in order for the guy to lead fairly from the pole jaws 
around the beam / stanchions / etc. to the turning block.

 

That's fine, I have a reaching strut, but I don't know exactly how to rig it.  
Where does the inboard end attach?  Toe rail?  Same mast ring as the spin pole? 
 Elsewhere?  And am I correct to assume the inboard (jaw) end of the reaching 
strut should face jaw pin up?  That way, on the outboard end, the guard keeping 
the guy on the sheave is up, not down.  My reaching strut is of such a length 
that when I attach it to the mast ring, it doesn't seem long enough to push the 
guy clear of the beam.  I also worry about the height of it that way. It won't 
attach to the mast collar, and I don't want to move he turning blocks forward 
to eliminate the need for it.

 

Also how do you lead your spin sheets after the turning blocks?  Through 
ratchet blocks?  To winches?  Which ones?  And do you use twings?  I fashioned 
some makeshift twings using extra mast collar blocks (which may be too heavy 
for twing usage) with lines crudely running through the stanchion bases near 
the chainplates and cleating on the dorade boxes.  The twings may not be 
strictly necessary because I have a poe down line running through a snatch 
block shackled to a padeye on the foredeck then through fairleads to a cam 
cleat on the side of the cabin top.

 

Thanks in Advance,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C&C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

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