I am looking at doing a similar install on my 36. 
The T shaped cockpit sure limits the room down there. 
Been looking online for a suitable (2 piece) tiller arm, but am coming around 
to the conclusion that I will have to make one. 
I am thinking that a 1 inch thick piece of aluminum might do it, or maybe a 
diesel engine piston rod, if I could find one the right size. I don't know 
where to get a piece of bronze that big, and the price would be probably be 
ridiculous anyway. 
Changing the idler plate on the steering was very cramped, especially doing the 
cables on the radius wheel.  

In retrospect I think that I would have liked a 35 better just for the reason 
of room to work below the cockpit. 
I don't see any way to get at the exhaust hose to through hull connection at 
all. 

Steve Thomas
C&C 36 (1980)
Merritt Island, FL

C&C27 MKIII (1978)
Port Stanley, ON
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
  To: csgilchr...@comcast.net 
  Cc: Jean-Francois J Rivard ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2016 10:45
  Subject: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38


  Hi Chuck,

  How about making a custom tiller arm that fits into the emergency tiller 
fitting above the radial drive? I saw that done online and thought that was 
rather clever.  I've also been mulling this over for a couple years now and 
that's the best "easy" solution I saw. 


  I have a similar situation where I would prefer a linear drive on my 34+ and 
for me there's no "Below deck" option as the radial drive sits over the cockpit 
floor under a cover in the pass through to the open stern swim ladder. The 
"correct" way involves dropping the rudder, cutting the tube below decks, 
slipping a tiller through, then custom glassing proper supports and shelving.. 
That's a pretty labor intensive project..  


  -Francois Rivard
  1990 34+ "Take Five"
  Lake Lanier, GA






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