Thanks for your reply Brad. My cover is screwed in place with more screws than I care to remove. However, it has one or two semi-circular limber holes on the port and starboard sides for water to flow away--none that I recall on forward part of it. I can believe that without these holes, water would sit in there and mold would grow. I would cut one or two per side along the cover where it meets the roof--that would probably be enough.
Of course if you use butyl tape, you need something to hold the cover pressed down on the tape. Your 1/2 x 1/2 strip of teak sounds like what is missing from mine, as another poster mentioned, so I plan to add something equivalent back to my sliding hatch if I can--adding the same to the teak boards would require removing all the cover screws. I surmise that my leaks result from the sliding hatch/teak board surface not being confined to a larger area. Its difficult to explain, and I may be off base entirely, but my educated guess is that without 'guides' of some kind, the water from the sliding hatch top surface gets on the boards and, especially where the contact surface between the boards and the hatch is skimpy. water 'wicks' underneath the sliding hatch/board surface and drips into the cabin. Since I have no guides, it is possible to close this hatch at a slight angle, thereby leaving some of the mating surfaces kind of small. Getting the water off the sliding hatch and vertically past the upper teak board surface (by extending the sliding hatch sides/edges) is probably the best solution in my case. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom C&C 36 XL/kcb Oriental, NC cenel...@aol.com -----Original Message----- From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Bradley Lumgair <lumg...@hotmail.com> Sent: Wed, Apr 27, 2016 11:18 am Subject: Stus-List Sliding hatch details Jumping in here, although I have a C&C 33 MkII my hatch leaks as well but it seems to leak between the teak rail and the cabin roof. I'm going to silicon the joint from under the cover. Is there supposed to be a drain to let the water out from under the cover somewhere? I see a reference to "limber holes" in the original post. Mine was siliconed down very tightly and full of black mould and mud. I thought I would use butyl tape instead, where should I leave a gap? Incidentally there is a 1/2 by 1/2 strip of teak on the outer, underside edge of the plexiglass sliding hatch to keep it in line, and another on the inside back edge to stop it from pulling out. There is also a stop screwed to the cabin roof to prevent the hatch from sliding far enough in to pinch fingers between the underside of the hatch and the front edge of the opening. Brad "Pulse" C&C 33 MkII Lake Huron I'd rather be sailing _______________________________________________ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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