My rudder rebuild pictures. The tangs/tabs were only attached to one side of the rudder. This was not to the rebuilder's approval and was corrected during the rebuild.
I doubt that it is possible to dry the foam without completely removing one of the sides. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Apr 3, 2016 12:11 PM, "Bob Hickson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi Bev, > Is your mainsail closed footed (foot has a bolt rope that slides in a > groove > along the boom) or open footed (just a single slug at the clew)? > If it has a close foot, there is little that you can do as the friction is > mostly the bolt rope sliding in the groove in the boom. > Mine is open footed with a single slug at the clew. I always spray the > sheaves with dry film lube in the spring and this helps. However, I need > assistance from the winch to adjust the outhaul even in fairly light > breezes. > > Earlier, I posted about rudder issues on my 29-2. > With further investigation, it appears that the previous owner had the > rudder repaired previously. I have enlarged the existing holes to let the > core dry out and allow me to probe inside the rudder with a thin wire. I > have been able to confirm that the rudder is entirely filled with foam that > appears to be in reasonable condition now that it is dry. There is no solid > steel plate in the center of the rudder as most holes can be probed through > to the opposite inside skin face with no problem. I will drill as few more > strategically placed holes to try to locate the metal tangs inside the > rudder. It is pretty obvious that the rudder skin was removed and replaced > in the previous repair but the joint between the two halves of the rudder > skin was simple filled with epoxy with no "bandage" of glass cloth / resin > added over the joint. > I will update again with further information. > If I can locate the tangs and confirm that good foam surrounds them then I > will fill the holes and cover the front 50% of the rudder with a layer of > glass cloth / epoxy. > If there are voids around the tangs then I will inject epoxy through holes > to ensure that there is no movement of the rudder body in relation to the > rudder post / tangs and then cover the front 50% of the rudder with glass > cloth epoxy. > I have already added a 3 inch wide strip of glass cloth / epoxy over the > hair line crack in the leading edge. > The above repair will add a second layer over the joint in the leading > edge. > > > Fair Winds, > > Bob Hickson, P. Eng. > Frenchman's Bay Yacht Club, > C and C 29 mark 2, Flying Colours, > 416-919-2297 > bobhick...@rogers.com > > > > > > Message: 4 > Date: Sun, 3 Apr 2016 14:58:41 +0000 (UTC) > From: Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Stus-List outhaul-29-2 > Message-ID: > <1072703862.1950121.1459695521579.javamail.ya...@mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I am washing, cleaning all the lines on the boat. The outhaul on the boom > always seems to be stiff. Can we make it more user friendly? Smaller lines? > Get rid of the wire?? > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > < > http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160403/6f > 889ca2/attachment-0001.html> > > > > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! >
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