"I’m hoping that Dennis will chime in …”

Well, that was quick!

I should have mentioned that the work done to my boat was done to the original 
gelcoat. But three coats seems to just be good practice, no matter what.

And I had to laugh at the Hutchins pneumatic sander. I spent many hours in my 
youth with one of those. I think it is still somewhere collecting dust in my 
shed.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> On Mar 29, 2016, at 8:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Russ,
> 
> Long answer to your question but it shows what can happen with painting an 
> old boat.  It also illustrates that preparation is 80% of most jobs.  Kinda 
> of a primer on primers.  :)
> 
> I'm not sure if the contractor long boarded between or after primer coats.  I 
> wasn't there when the contractor did that portion. However, there was more to 
> it than just removing 40 years of scratches and dings.
> 
> First, some history.  A close examination of the existing paint showed 
> numerous "fish eyes".  Tiny pinprick size holes in the paint where it 
> apparently didn't completely lay down.  I had heard "dock tales" about how a 
> PO had hired the local boat yard's painter to paint the boat in the water 
> over a weekend.  Rumor was they tied it side to at a bulkhead, set an anchor 
> a ways out and careened it slightly with a masthead halyard.  The guy painted 
> it from a dinghy.  The next day they swapped it and painted the other side.  
> The rumor was they used Imron paint.
> 
> This dubious story led the painting contractor and I to question everything 
> about the paint job.  On his advice, I scrubbed a 3 x 3 foot section of the 
> hull, repaired some dings and sanded it with 320 grit.  He was painting a 
> nearby boat with white AwlCraft.  At the end of that job, he came over with 
> the paint gun and sprayed the test area.
> 
> What???  The paint beaded up in spots.  Where I had done the repair exposing 
> underlying coats of paint, it reacted with those other paints.  Some layers 
> peeled up slightly and other layers reacted turning the white AwlCraft pink.  
> Upon seeing this, we decided we needed to sand the entire topsides to remove 
> all the layers of unknown paints.  
> 
> When working with $250/gallon paint and the risk of a botched job, we decided 
> removing the old paints was the safest course of action.
> 
> I did most of the smoothing myself with a Hutchins straight line sander like 
> this:
> 
> http://www.hutchinsmfg.com/View-Product.aspx?group_id=424043 
> <http://www.hutchinsmfg.com/View-Product.aspx?group_id=424043>
> 
> If you use a disc sander, you risk creating gouges or divots in the hull.  
> Especially if using a smaller sander like a 4 or 5 inch diameter.  When 
> applying a high gloss paint, it is critical that you have a very smooth 
> surface.  
> 
> The straight line sander is held horizontally and moved up and down the hull 
> at a slight angle to vertical.  That is, in a "V" pattern.
> 
> If you got up close and personal with Touche's topsides prior to the 
> painting, you would have noticed a lot of imperfections.  Much was due to 
> post cure shrinkage.  I could see the pattern of the underlying roving as 
> well as the vertical  "dimple" at the upper shroud brace.  The sander removed 
> nearly all the imperfections.
> 
> As I sanded, I definitely saw several layers of old paint.  I even found the 
> original name "Touche" in the gap in the cove stripe under the shrouds.  It 
> was under at least 2 layers.
> 
> Even though I removed as much of the old paint as I could, there were still 
> small spots in recessions in the hull.  When the contractor shot the primer, 
> he saw small spots where the primer reacted with the old paint.  Additional 
> coats where required to "bury" the old paints.
> 
> So, to answer the question of why 3 coats of primer, it was both for 
> smoothing physical imperfections as well as for "burying" spots of the old 
> paint.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> On Mon, Mar 28, 2016 at 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> Hi Dennis,
> 
> Was the 3 coats of high build primer for long boarding to a fair hull? 
> 
> When I did the decks I was set to do high build primer and the paint rep 
> suggested going the regularly spec'd (2 pot) primer.
> 
> I have a hull paint project coming up next year and the hull needs fairing, 
> so I'm looking for best practices. 
> 
>         Cheers, Russ
>         Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 09:00 AM 28/03/2016, you wrote:
>> My only substantive comment on paint is to consider Awlcraft vs Awlgrip.  
>> Particularly true if you're concerned about scratches.  Awlcraft is easier 
>> to repair and blend.
>> 
>> Touche' is Sunfast Red Awlcraft over 3 coats of high build primer.  The 
>> Awlcraft looks great!
>> 
>> Dennis C.
> 
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