Thank you for the input Dwight, Josh, Doug, Alan, Gary and Parsons.

 

To collate everything I’ve heard - and as long as this isn’t the dreaded
mast-step compression issue in the keel stub (touching wooden head as I say
this) – I should:

 

Ensure the bolts are properly torqued; if they are good, leave it alone and
monitor the smile at the end of this season to see if there’s any
progression.

However, if the bolts take some torquing to get them back to spec, then I
should consider grinding out the crack and making the repairs. Correct?

 

Regarding the spot at the top of the keel stub nearer the hull, I think I’ll
have to grind that out and re-glass it. On the exterior, it’s a welt about
the size of a dime, but to apply the 12:1 rule of proper patching, I would
be grinding a 4” divot, layering in the glass and epoxy, and fairing. Does
that sound reasonable?

 

Doug (dallary), when you did the ‘core sampling’ to test the integrity of
the high density fill used in the cavity under the mast-step, how did you
plug the ¼” hole you drilled? The PO did this each year on the rudder –
drilled a ¼” hole in the bottom to drain any water – and he plugged it with
caulking each spring. BTW, I got about 6 oz of water out of the rudder when
I did this at haul-out (PO says that was normal).

 

Thanks again, everyone, for your wisdom!

 

Jason Ainslie, Spirit

1984 C&C 35-3

 

  _____  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight
veinot via CnC-List
Sent: March-22-16 4:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Smile

 

If those big keel bolts are torqued right I would expect very little
"cushioning" to happen so check the torque on the nuts when she's on the
hard and adjust to specs also found on the CNC site then do option a or b
and go sailing

On Tuesday, March 22, 2016, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Remember that most of these joints are bedded with 4200, 5200, or similar.
These materials cushion any flex between the keel and the hull.  Anything
applied over the bedding will likely be less squishy and more brittle
(fairing compound, epoxy, barrier coat, bottom paint).

I agree, it doesn't look bad.  As long as water isn't leaking in or out then
I wouldn't worry.  Take some pictures and monitor it each time the boat is
hauled out.  

When it is decidedly time to take action my first step would be to torque
the keel bolts.

If that doesn't yield improvement then attempt a repair according to the
link below. 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=docsli
st_api

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD 

On Mar 19, 2016 2:08 PM, "Ainslie via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
<javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');> > wrote:

My keel joint seems to be opening up; there wasn't much sign of it at haul
out, but now it's noticeable. Also, you can see something oozing from the
crack. Whatever it is has an oily texture so I'm guessing it’s coming from
the bilge. In the first photo, the vertical stain is the same oily ooze
coming from a welt higher up on the keel stub. I think I have to address it
because if something can get out, then surely water can get in. Three
options: a)rout out the crack and fill with epoxy; b) fill it with 5200 (on
the premise that the keel ‘wants’ to flex laterally, so fill it with
something flexible); or c)see how it progresses this season and see if I
have an autumn project? I don’t think (c) is the best option. I’ve done this
kind of work before – I’d appreciate hearing what the Listers say…

 

http://jainslieblog.blogspot.ca/

 

Could this have been caused by the way it's sitting in the cradle? FYI, this
keel is a modified bulb, done by MarsKeel about 9 years ago. Thanks for any
input.

 

Jason Ainslie, Spirit

1984 C&C 35-3

Port of Bayfield

 


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