Thanks Gary. Just found out from the previous owner it's a West Marine Ablative, but he can't remember specifically which.
On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 12:00 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to > cnc-list@cnc-list.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? (Gary Nylander) > 2. Re: Gori 2 Blade Re-fit (John Irvin) > 3. Re: Rudder crack C&C 25 (Peter Fell) > 4. Re: Faria Depth Finders (Ryan Doyle) > 5. Re: FM antenna? (Michael Brown) > 6. Re: Faria Depth Finders (Della Barba, Joe) > 7. Re: Prop nut (Gary Russell) > 8. Bilge hose (Bradley Lumgair) > 9. Re: Bilge hose (Joel Aronson) > 10. Re: Rudder crack C&C 25 (Marek Dziedzic) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 10:22:52 -0500 > From: "Gary Nylander" <gnylan...@atlanticbb.net> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? > Message-ID: <001d01d17497$70011d60$50035820$@atlanticbb.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > You may want to buy a quart of whatever bottom paint is there and a foam > brush - just smooth the rough edges out and cover them. It appears to be > something thick...??.. > > Gary > > -----Original Message----- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan > Doyle via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, March 2, 2016 9:48 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Do I need a new coat of bottom paint? > > Thanks everyone for the responses. I am a diver, so I'm more than happy to > take a dive under the boat mid-summer to check things out and do some > cleaning if needed. I'm probably going to leave it as is for now and buy a > much-needed new depth finder. > > Francois - good call on touching up with "leftovers" if I can trade a few > beers or whatever for them. As someone else pointed out though, I should > find out what type is on there before I paint at all. I'll contact the > previous owner and figure out what it is. > > Now I have some questions about depth finders. I'll start a new thread. > > Thanks again guys. Very helpful as usual. > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 10:26:14 -0500 > From: John Irvin <john.ir...@rogers.com> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit > Message-ID: <139640.7458...@smtp201.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > If you are close enough Bayview Propeller in Lakefied ON does rebuilds. > > -----Original Message----- > From: "J Roger via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Sent: ?2016-?03-?02 9:10 AM > To: "CnC-List@cnc-list.com" <CnC-List@cnc-list.com> > Cc: "J Roger" <johnbobro...@gmail.com> > Subject: Stus-List Gori 2 Blade Re-fit > > Hi..I have a 12 x 9 LH Gori with the gears for my C&C 27 MK III. The > blades are loosey gossey and I know oversized pins can extend life. Anybody > experienced a refit? Seems like a shame to make it a paper weight. > > > TY > > > J > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160302/a9d7e5e4/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 3 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 07:33:10 -0800 > From: "Peter Fell" <prf...@gmail.com> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25 > Message-ID: <56209ca49886406187354dcdb8d91...@intra.camosun.bc.ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; > reply-type=original > > I'd avoid silicone at all costs .... it doesn't last that long and it's > near > impossible to fully remove the residue when re-sealing. > > Others can correct me here but it seems to me the best approach would be to > remove the gudgeon, enlarge the holes and dig out any punky plywood and let > the area dry out and re-fill them 1st with clear epoxy (soaks in) and then > with thickened epoxy. Then once it's cured re-drill the holes. Same idea > as > putting holes through your cored deck. > > Peter Fell > Sidney, BC > Cygnet > C&C 27 MkIII > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 4:37 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Mark McMenamy > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25 > > Rick, > > Thanks for the info. That makes perfect sense. The surveyor said the > lower > gudgeon was leaking. When I get it down I'll open it up and put a heat > lamp > on it. Things like this make me thankful to have a 25. What a bigger pain > it'd be if I had to deal with a foam cored rudder with a rusted post. > > Do I seal the gudgeon with silicone, or is there a fitting that needs to be > replaced? > > Thanks a lot, > > Mark McMenamy > C&C 25 "Icicle" > Fort Pierce FL > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 4 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 10:39:22 -0500 > From: Ryan Doyle <ryanpdo...@gmail.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Faria Depth Finders > Message-ID: <627958c7-1c31-4a7d-9e6f-066416a5e...@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Thanks Joe. When you say "S-H", is that the unit branded as Hawkeye? > > Like this one? > http://www.amazon.com/Norcross-Hawkeye-D10D-Depth-Sounder/dp/B000JEOEE0 > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 5 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 10:56:33 -0500 > From: Michael Brown <m...@tkg.ca> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List FM antenna? > Message-ID: <939492139-20...@mail.tkg.ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Yes, left a lot out. I am not sure how detailed, or long, to make these > posts. > I guess the point is that the splitters work well. I have the Shakespeare > unit > installed with a Shakespeare loaded whip. I was commenting that if the FM > reception is poor it may not be the splitter causing the problem. > > Michael Brown > Windburn > C&C 30-1 > ? > > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 09:46:54 -0500 > From: Bill Bina - gmail <billbinal...@gmail.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List FM antenna? > Message-ID: <56d6fcde.2070...@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"; Format="flowed" > > There are some vital points left out of this analysis. A horizontal > dipole antenna is only superior when aimed accurately at the particular > station you want to hear. It is very directional. A vertical antenna is > less focused as far as interference, but is omni directional, which is > far superior when the listening station is one that moves and turns. > Does anyone remember the brief period when embedded dipole windshield > antennas in cars were a "thing"? Everyone got over that failed > experiment pretty quickly, and went back to vertical whips. ?How well do > you suppose a horizontal antenna would work for your VHF? :-) > > Bill Bina > > On 3/2/2016 9:33 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List wrote: > > The splitter works well, worth the price. > > > > There are some technical challenges to consider. A VHF antenna will be > > tuned > > ( some better than others ) to 157 MHz. FM is 88 - 108 MHz. The better > the > > VHF antenna the less FM signal strength it will pass through. The FM > > station > > has a choice of polarizing the signal vertically, horizontally, most > > do both. > > The vertical whip antenna picks up the vertical version, which is > > considered > > to be more susceptible to interference. > > > > It may be that a FM specific dipole will work as well. > > > > > http://www.ebay.com/itm/PHILMORE-5035-DIPOLE-FM-ANTENNA-w-MOTOROLA-PLUG-FITS-VINTAGE-VHF-SCANNERS-/151928946680 > > > > 28.5" each side is the correct length for FM. > > > > In the style of YMMV, if you have a well tuned VHF antenna with a 50' > > run to the spiltter, then another 10' run to > > the radio trying to pick up a "college" station around 88 MHz with > > horizontal polarization is not going to work well. > > > > Michael Brown > > Windburn > > C&C 30-1 > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160302/e99da181/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 6 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 15:59:16 +0000 > From: "Della Barba, Joe" <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> > To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Faria Depth Finders > Message-ID: > <24a419e943b54bc5acd482228d3f6...@nsc-dag3-06.ba.ad.ssa.gov> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > http://www.standardhorizon.com/indexVS.cfm?cmd=DisplayProducts&ProdCatID=86&ProdID=36&DivisionID=3 > > This is the one I have. It can output NMEA or be a NMEA repeater, which is > pretty cool :) > I got it for $40 from FleaBay. > Joe > Coquina > > -----Original Message----- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ryan > Doyle via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 10:39 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Ryan Doyle > Subject: Re: Stus-List Faria Depth Finders > > Thanks Joe. When you say "S-H", is that the unit branded as Hawkeye? > > Like this one? > http://www.amazon.com/Norcross-Hawkeye-D10D-Depth-Sounder/dp/B000JEOEE0 > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 7 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 11:05:05 -0500 > From: Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com> > To: "C&C List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop nut > Message-ID: > < > cabgkxpke2kermg0iuo+mct97pjj1_zdj+twj-6gr-hfi6lo...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > If there are any threads exposed, you might want to determine the thread > direction that way before tightening it further.? > > Gary > > ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ > > > On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 9:00 AM, J Roger via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > > > I'll give it a shot the other way Gary. Thanks > > > > > > > > On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 7:08 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List < > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > >> Are you sure it is a right hand thread? Otherwise, it seems time for > >> heat. MAP gas is a lot hotter than propane (just sayin') > >> > >> Gary > >> S/V High Maintenance > >> '90 C&C 37+ > >> East Greenwich, RI, USA > >> > >> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~ > >> > >> > >> On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 6:53 AM, J Roger via CnC-List < > >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> > >>> Cotter pin. I tried an electric impact wrench with socket .Used a 2x4 > >>> across the hull with one of the blades wedged against. No joy. Would a > >>> propane torch help? > >>> > >>> J > >>> > >>> C&C27 MkIII > >>> On Mar 2, 2016 4:50 AM, "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" < > >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >>> > >>>> Is there either a jam nut or a cotter pin, or both? > >>>> > >>>> Josh Muckley > >>>> S/V Sea Hawk > >>>> 1989 C&C 37+ > >>>> Solomons, MD > >>>> On Mar 1, 2016 11:33 PM, "J Roger via CnC-List" < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > >>>> wrote: > >>>> > >>>>> I can't get mine off, any ideas? > >>>>> > >>>>> On Tue, Mar 1, 2016 at 5:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List < > >>>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >>>>> > >>>>>> In my experience, propeller nuts should not be overly tight. They > >>>>>> should be firmly snugged. If the hole for the cotter key doesn't > line up, a > >>>>>> new hole should be drilled in the shaft. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> A prop nut so installed should loosen easily. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Opinions may vary on this depending on prop manufacturer's > >>>>>> instructions. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Dennis C. > >>>>>> > >>>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>>> > >>>>>> Email address: > >>>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >>>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to > the > >>>>>> bottom of page at: > >>>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>>> > >>>>> Email address: > >>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > >>>>> bottom of page at: > >>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>>> > >>>> _______________________________________________ > >>>> > >>>> Email address: > >>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > >>>> bottom of page at: > >>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> > >>> _______________________________________________ > >>> > >>> Email address: > >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > >>> bottom of page at: > >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> > >> Email address: > >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > >> bottom of page at: > >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > >> > >> > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Email address: > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > > bottom of page at: > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160302/5d6522b9/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 8 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 11:45:21 -0500 > From: Bradley Lumgair <lumg...@hotmail.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List Bilge hose > Message-ID: <snt406-eas35f474073893b17905e5cfa6...@phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > None of the hoses on my 33 MkII have ever been changed, so that's one of > this winters projects. I've done the exhaust and purchased the hose for the > sanitary, but am a bit unsure when it comes to the bilge. The original > set-up is a diaphragm bilge hand pump up in the cockpit and another in the > settee next the mast base. There's got to be 60 feet of 1-1/2 inch white > (yellowish) brittle old hose under the floorboards. I have found either > white or black corrugated hose for not a lot of money or clear with either > a black or white plastic spiral (smooth inside) for more than $3 per foot. > It sounds like the clear is better hose but it's been suggested that it's > not intended for long runs, nor below waterline installation yet it's sold > as bilge hose..? The surveyor recommended an automatic bilge pump as well. > The boat is generally very dry except for rainwater down the mast. Any > suggestions? What set-up is everyone else using? > Thanks > Brad > "Pulse" C&C 33MkII > Lake Huron > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 9 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 11:52:58 -0500 > From: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> > To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Bilge hose > Message-ID: > <CAEL16P-HZu+SNoCaf9_koOe_zHdU_3bJ=tj08ZS7Cg= > g0jx...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Its fine for underwaterline applications so long as the discharge is above > the waterline. > > I had a hand pump connected to that type of hose that ran to a thru-hull in > the bottom of the boat. Scared the crap out of me! > > My cockpit pump still has the yellow hose. > > Joel > 35/3 > Annapolis > > On Wed, Mar 2, 2016 at 11:45 AM, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > None of the hoses on my 33 MkII have ever been changed, so that's one of > > this winters projects. I've done the exhaust and purchased the hose for > the > > sanitary, but am a bit unsure when it comes to the bilge. The original > > set-up is a diaphragm bilge hand pump up in the cockpit and another in > the > > settee next the mast base. There's got to be 60 feet of 1-1/2 inch white > > (yellowish) brittle old hose under the floorboards. I have found either > > white or black corrugated hose for not a lot of money or clear with > either > > a black or white plastic spiral (smooth inside) for more than $3 per > foot. > > It sounds like the clear is better hose but it's been suggested that it's > > not intended for long runs, nor below waterline installation yet it's > sold > > as bilge hose..? The surveyor recommended an automatic bilge pump as > well. > > The boat is generally very dry except for rainwater down the mast. Any > > suggestions? What set-up is everyone else using? > > Thanks > > Brad > > "Pulse" C&C 33MkII > > Lake Huron > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Email address: > > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > > bottom of page at: > > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > > > -- > Joel > 301 541 8551 > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160302/1fd04c47/attachment-0001.html > > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 10 > Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2016 11:54:41 -0500 > From: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25 > Message-ID: <blu407-eas1349d3464ab7df6818c6fd7ce...@phx.gbl> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > There are products that are, supposedly, made for such work: CPES (by > Rotdoctor) and Git-Rot (BoatLife). Supposedly CPES penetrates better. Both > of them penetrate better than the normal epoxy resin. > > However, I have no personal experience on how well they preserve the wood. > I > used Git-Rot in the past on a project almost exactly like yours (rudder on > my C&C 24; it seems that they are very similar). The rudder is still in one > piece (10 years later), but I cannot tell if it is because or despite what > I > did. > > Marek > C270 "Legato" > (ex. 1974 C&C 24 "Fennel") > Ottawa, ON > > -----Original Message----- > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter > Fell via CnC-List > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 10:33 > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Peter Fell <prf...@gmail.com> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25 > > I'd avoid silicone at all costs .... it doesn't last that long and it's > near > impossible to fully remove the residue when re-sealing. > > Others can correct me here but it seems to me the best approach would be to > remove the gudgeon, enlarge the holes and dig out any punky plywood and let > the area dry out and re-fill them 1st with clear epoxy (soaks in) and then > with thickened epoxy. Then once it's cured re-drill the holes. Same idea > as > putting holes through your cored deck. > > Peter Fell > Sidney, BC > Cygnet > C&C 27 MkIII > > -----Original Message----- > From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List > Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 4:37 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Mark McMenamy > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C&C 25 > > Rick, > > Thanks for the info. That makes perfect sense. The surveyor said the > lower > gudgeon was leaking. When I get it down I'll open it up and put a heat > lamp > on it. Things like this make me thankful to have a 25. What a bigger pain > it'd be if I had to deal with a foam cored rudder with a rusted post. > > Do I seal the gudgeon with silicone, or is there a fitting that needs to be > replaced? > > Thanks a lot, > > Mark McMenamy > C&C 25 "Icicle" > Fort Pierce FL > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > CnC-List mailing list > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > ------------------------------ > > End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 122, Issue 12 > ***************************************** >
_______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
