I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant on putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail. I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut under the deck. It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on the aluminum rail, but I'll worry about that later. In general, I love the conversion. No more leaks on the decks, more room, and solid. Ahmet 1973 C&C 25 "Tabasco" Winthrop, MA
On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used > the type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At > the time I think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the > $450 you mentioned. > > > > I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on > each of the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long > enough to handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and > drill an additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to > deck joint (which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer > for backing and a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe > rail for the (#10, IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the > stanchion. All told, it took about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and > it is a 2 man job to install the bolts through the hull to deck joint. > > > > My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old > lifelines in the new installation, but YMMV. > > > > I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons: > > > > It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward – > even though it is only about 5 inches on each side. > > The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are > vertical but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that > they thought the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which > I believe was a problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the > early 80s). > > On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the > rail, so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft > and drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions. > > And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than > the deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the > locations where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in > the gelcoat, but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with > resulting leaks into the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my > projects for this coming season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots > left behind by the old bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect > to see any future deck repairs; at least in those areas. > > > > Rick Brass > > Washington, NC > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Barbara > Hickson Fellers via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM > *To:* C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > *Cc:* Barbara Hickson Fellers <blhick...@yahoo.com> > *Subject:* Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases > > > > I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and > was considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the > toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be > screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt. Not the case > said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru > your rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this? My > toerail holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this > sounds like a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and > MAYBE get a better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated. > Barbara L. Hickson > > "Flight Risk" C&C 33-1 > > Chas., SC. > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the > bottom of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > >
_______________________________________________ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
