It will be a lot easier if you remove the base panel for the quarter berth. I have cut my base panel roughly in half for ease of removal for many different projects in that area. All it takes is a sawcut with a circular saw adjusted to the correct depth but beware of wiring!
Bob Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer > On Dec 8, 2015, at 10:36 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > @Dave, I think you're probably right. Water could have gotten onto the > battery ledge from condensation or past engine leaks (the exhaust run was > replaced a few years ago, maybe the reason was that it was leaking). A cup or > so of standing water would just sit there until the next time the boat was > sailed on a port tack or motored in waves enough to induce roll. I think I > should also drill some limber holes at the back corners of the battery ledge. > > Thanks for the tips, I'm new to things like this, hadn't even thought of the > hole saw trick for starting a cut. I didn't really understand your mouse hole > idea though. The rotted area (tested tapping a screwdriver) is one section > about 4" horizontal at the base by 2-3" high, and the other section about 12" > horizontal and 6-8" high (a very large mouse hole). What's a "dutchman"? > > I'm going to bring my moisture meter to the boat so I can get a better idea > of how much is rotted and how much isn't. > Initially the bluish / grey tint to the wood where the paint has peeled back > worried me, making me think the entire area is bad (even though it taps out > okay). Now I've realized I think C&C used wood that has a blue / gray > laminate or base paint layer. Because I see a similar color in the galley > shelves where the white paint is peeling back a little. > > @Rick, there is an access panel from the quarterberth, but that panel is > vertically above the area where the issue is, and it juts out about 8" - in > other words, the battery cubby is inset / receded under the quarterberth. > Hard to describe. So to see the wall rot from there I'd have to stick my head > into the engine space, push my head down and try to bend my neck around the > corner to get at the wall. I think it will be much easier to go in through > the below-quarterberth storage, but I'll probably have to remove the > quarterberth base panel to do that. > > Sorry the pictures aren't great, it's a tough area to photograph. I should've > taken a video with my GoPro. > > -Patrick > >> On Mon, Dec 7, 2015 at 5:14 PM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> ---------- Forwarded message ---------- >> From: Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, "jda...@gmail.com" <jda...@gmail.com> >> Cc: >> Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2015 19:17:48 -0500 >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rot in non-structural bulkhead - thoughts? >> Sorry - a little hasty and the dreaded double post. >> >> If the entire bottom is rotten along a 2-3' length I would cut it out. >> First though, make sure by prodding it hard with a screwdriver along its >> length. Wash with bleach so you can see past the mildew.. >> >>> I would be very surprised if the rot was not a result of standing water >>> collecting at the bottom. Even condensation dripping down if it is humid >>> as you say. Any rot I've found in various boats started at the end grain, >>> and typically low down where water collects. The holes cut for wires are a >>> typical trouble spot as there is plenty of end grain which has not been >>> glassed or finished conscientiously. After you identify the rotted areas, >>> cut out the rot at described below, or if its a bigger area, buy or borrow >>> a Fein oscillating tool with a bimetal blade. This is a gift for boat >>> surgeons. As below, ensure the repair is saturated with epoxy. >>> >>> My thought would be to cut above the area of rot it with a hole saw, then >>> cut vertically down to the bottom, making a mouse hole. Size everything to >>> remove the rot. Make the mouse hole big enough to work/sand inside. Wash >>> the whole area with bleach to kill any spores. (Careful around diesel) >>> Rough radius the sharp corners, sand the bottom flat and coat the whole >>> thing in epoxy. Paint it white so you can see problems/mole later. If >>> you need to close the hole, make a cover that laps the sides, much easier >>> than fitting a 'dutchman'. (Unless you enjoy that sort of thing as I do). >>> I'd be tempted to leave the mouse hole open to allow it to drain and let >>> the air move. My 33ii has several areas that would (and will) benefit from >>> greater air movement. >>> >>> Dave. > > > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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