Thanks Gary. I'll give it a try
Allen
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 2015 4:57 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
Hi Allen,
With the grey Plexiglas, the black looks very nice. I can't imagine using
white, personally. There are two shades of gray (2064 and 2074). I chose the
darker color (2074) and really like it.
Gary
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 2:57 PM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
Gary,
After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked
with some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of
weeks, then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window. Now I can
see a little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the cabin
fiberglass. I was looking for something white and more persistent, but maybe
black would be good.
Allen
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
Allen,
If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
Gary
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
What did you use for caulking to protect the bond? My caulking is coming
undone.
Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C&C 30-2
Hampton, VA
From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
I have templates for the C&C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually,
just a set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.
However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, yet
the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows again
it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.
I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one
out there. It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal
with cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High
Maintenance, I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated
below. I have successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and
replaced the acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been
very successful. I have terminated my project at this point as the
temperatures are now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of
greater than 60 degrees F for application. Here are my observations:
#1. Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat. It is too
hard and tenacious a bond. Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a
different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured. Removing
the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat underneath. I tried a
sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was
rip up the gel coat.
#2. Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin
plywood (or other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in
pieces and you will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.
#3. I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router bit
set to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness of the
Plexus. I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a smaller
footprint and was easier to handle. I free-handed the router to cut through
the acrylic and into the Plexus. It’s risky but effective. Don’t cut all the
way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the window. Otherwise, the
window will sink under the weight of the router and you will cut into the gel
coat. You can break out the tabs later.
#4. Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with
low density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat. Fortunately, all my
gel coat damage was limited to the area under the windows. Once the windows
are out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy.
#5. I cut the new window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router
bit (sometimes called a Formica trimmer). I used masking tape folded in half
lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas to the old window (or template). I ran
the tape at right angles to insure that they wouldn’t slide in either direction
with respect to each other. It does a very nice job and is quite easy. I then
used a 1/8” round off router bit on the outside edge of the new window for
cosmetic reasons and a 45 degree chamfer bit on the inside edge to make room
for the Dow Corning 795 silicone.
#6. I installed the 3M VHB 4991 tape on the coach roof and masked around
where I wanted the window to go. This would help me locate the window and
provide the masking for the Dow Corning 795 silicone to follow. I also masked
the edge of the new window for the same reason.
#7. Now cones the tricky part. You only get one shot with the VHB tape,
because once it is down, it is not coming up. I tried adhering two small
pieces of acrylic to each other with about two square inches of VHB tape, and I
can assure you, you won’t pull them apart. VHB is amazing stuff. As a guide,
I mounted two small wooden blocks to the masking take below the window with a
small piece of VHB tape. By attaching it to the masking tape, I was sure I
could get it back off. Actually, VHB doesn’t stick very well to masking tape
anyway. I also stuck a small wooden block to the masking tape at one end of
the window as well. This allowed me to set the window on the two bottom block
and then slide it over to the end block before pushing the window into place.
By all means, make several trial runs with the film still on the VHB tape
before removing the film. Once the film is off you are committed. I pushed
the window in place and it looked perfect. Then it is simply a matter of
squirting the Dow Corning stuff into the gap and smoothing it out with a
finger. As soon as the silicon is smoothed out, you can remove the masking
tape and pour yourself a stiff one, while you admire the fine job you have done.
#8. There was concern expressed that the VHB tape would be visible
through the window, and it was suggested that the window should be painted with
Krylon Fusion Black. Actually, the VHB tape is the same color as the Plexus
which is not visible, so the VHB won’t be visible either. No paint is
necessary. I used the darker shade of grey Plexiglas and can say that it look
spectacular. The darker shade really “pops” and the contrast is particularly
attractive (in my humble opinion). The darker color makes it difficult to see
into the boat, but has a minimal effect when looking out. The VHB is not
visible at all.
#9. There was also concern expressed concerning whether the curvature of
the coach roof would cause a flexing force to peel the VHB tape. I can say
that the radius of curvature is very large (>20 feet) and the forces are thus
very small. 3/8” acrylic over those lengths is quite flexible. I see no
problem at all.
#9. I have posted some pictures on Google Drive and I think you can view
them at:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwQRSP2fYIFmemxYOGlVcHNUNVk&usp=sharing
I am new to posting pictures, so if you have trouble seeing them, email
me and we can get it fixed. I will add more pictures as they become available.
#10. Needless to say, I am thrilled with the outcome so far. I have
also re-glazed the hatches using the Boatworks video and they came out
spectacular as well. The only difference I made from their recommendations is
that I bedded the acrylic in butyl tape instead of the Dow Corning 795 because
it was much easier to get a uniform bead and that was the way it was done from
the factory. I still filled the gap around the windows with the Dow Corning
795. Boatworks is right, the Dow Corning 795 is nice stuff.
#11. If I have left anything out or you have any questions about this
post, just give me a shout.
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
’90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
--
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett Ave
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone +401 965 5260
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
bottom of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom
of page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
_______________________________________________
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
