This is what I did. strip the antifouling ( Interlux 299 ), cleaned again and
again with Interlux 202 ( and acetone), then applied West epoxy, and later on 5
layers of Interprotect ( because I did the whole bottom with Interprotect.That
was in 1997 and still like it was 18 years ago.
And antifouling sticks very well, never peeled, I just keep adding VC17 once
every 2 years.My rudder was redone so it doesn't have Interprotect, just plain
epoxy, and I need to touch-up the VC17 in addition of the occasional full
layer. But there is more water turbulence on the rudder so that probably
explain the need to touch-up.
SylvainC&C27 MkIII
From: Jim Watts via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: 1 CnC List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Jim Watts <paradigmat...@gmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2015 5:40 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel repair
I heard of that technique with keel scrubbing but using a wire brush with epoxy
to really get into the lead. I think that came from Gougeon originally, but I
don't know who first mentioned it on this forum.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 22 November 2015 at 08:24, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
David,
IMO, the leading edge is subject to impact from "stuff" in the water. In my
area after a big rain event, I see all sorts of things in the lake. Just think
it's a good practice to prepare for hitting something.
Similarly, I think a trailing edge should be repaired with high strength
material. Not sure about others, but Touche's keel's trailing edge is shaped
to a fine 1/4 inch square edge. I wanted high strength there due to the thin
shape.
Using a lightweight fairing compound on the keel sides should fine. Touche'
has Awlfair to smooth and shape the sides and underbody.
If the keel has been sand to bright lead, many recommend a primer prior to
painting. The lead will begin to oxidize immediately so speed is apparently
important. The neatest technique for coating bright lead I've ever heard about
is to apply epoxy with a scrubbing pad. The pad removes the oxidation and
applies the epoxy all at once. I want to say that came from Wally but not sure.
Dennis C.
On Sun, Nov 22, 2015 at 10:03 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi Dennis- Why would you need such a high strength material on the leading edge
of a keel? This seems like a pretty low stress area. I tend to think I should
worry more about adhesion strength and the different materials have a large
range of surface preparation procedures for adhesion to the lead. I have
talked to a few people about keel repair and no one has had problems with the
repair failing and the materials have ranged from thickened epoxy with chopped
glass to marine tex putty to lightweight epoxy putties (Interlux/pettit). Here
is what I have found so far on properties
Marine Tex: tensile strength 4000 psi compression strength 13000 psi
West system epoxy resin tensile strength 7000 psi compression strength 11000
psi
One other question- is the lead keel normally coated with something before
bottom paint? I am having the bottom stripped this winter and not sure if a
primer is needed on the keel before bottom paint.Dave
On Nov 21, 2015, at 11:03 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
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