Patrick: The yard replaced all four of my mounts when my fuel tank was replaced over a winter. If I recall correctly, they replaced one at a time and didn't need a jack. The two aft mounts were the toughest.
Bob Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer > On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:29 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the > logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. > > I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the > perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back > end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection > (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus > Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily > maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. > > I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online > reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a > lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount > now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission > premature wear. > > > Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be > interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though > your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by > the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of > what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the > existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit > rusted on. > > I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place > that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the > hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. > I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its > raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that > point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload. > > Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it > will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not > to break in the summer months, but I guess not! > > -Patrick > S/V Violet Hour, LF38 > Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina > > ------------------------------------ > Martin DeYoung mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com > Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013 > I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back. I > used the R&D Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc. As none of the existing > engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded > bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start. > > In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to > build up the engine support frames. Once I understood what was under all the > fiberglass and paint I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the > older ones if possible. > > The results when finished were worth the effort. I did re-align the > engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft. The engine vibration transmitted > through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being > confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked > down in a heavy sea. > > One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help is a small scissor > jack to be used in holding the engine in place while changing the mounts. Let > me know if you want more info on how I approached the process, but there is > much already written about the topic available. > > Martin > Calypso > 1970 C&C 43 > Seattle > _______________________________________________ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >
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