Patrick:

The yard replaced all four of my mounts when my fuel tank was replaced over a 
winter.  If I recall correctly, they replaced one at a time and didn't need a 
jack.  The two aft mounts were the toughest.

Bob

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Aug 11, 2015, at 11:29 PM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Anyone have tips for replacing engine mounts on a Yanmar 3HM? In terms of the 
> logistics, like how to prop up the engine, get the old mounts out, etc. 
> 
> I have the transmission out now for a rebuild (fwd clutch failed) so it's the 
> perfect time to replace mounts. I'm just going to do the forward two (back 
> end of v-drive engine) because those are the two the mechanical inspection 
> (purchase survey at the start of this year) said were delaminating. Plus 
> Gallery Marine in Seattle has two in stock, not four. If this goes easily 
> maybe I'll consider replacing the aft two. 
> 
> I'm going to go with the OEM mounts instead of PYI since several online 
> reviews said Yanmar OEMs were significantly better (and they look it too - a 
> lot more rubber for vibration dampening). The engine vibrates a fair amount 
> now, and a slight misalignment might be what caused the transmission 
> premature wear. 
> 
> 
> Copying a mail from Martin below in 2013 on the list. Martin, I'd be 
> interested in hearing more if you still recall the work you did (even though 
> your engine is a Perkins, so the mounts are different). What did you mean by 
> the existing engine mount bolts didn't meet your standards? I'm ignorant of 
> what the issue with lag and stripped threaded bolts is. I'm expecting the 
> existing mounts may be hard to get out because the bolts/nuts look a bit 
> rusted on. 
> 
> I saw your suggestion of a scissor jack, but I'm not sure where I would place 
> that? The engine doesn't have super good flat surfaces between it and the 
> hull. And the plates the mounts attach to look too small to fit a jack in. 
> I've read that the mount nuts can just be used to raise the engine until its 
> raised enough to slip the mounts out (block it with scrap wood at that 
> point). Is that actually the best way? I have some pictures I could upload.
> 
> Thanks! Hoping to do this project in the next two weeks, which is how long it 
> will take Harbor Marine to get to the transmission. I thought boats knew not 
> to break in the summer months, but I guess not!
> 
> -Patrick
> S/V Violet Hour, LF38
> Seattle, WA, now in Elliott Bay marina
> 
> ------------------------------------
> Martin DeYoung mdeyoung at deyoungmfg.com 
> Wed May 22 13:38:22 EDT 2013
> I replaced all 4 of Calypso's engine mounts (Perkins 4-108) a while back.  I 
> used the R&D Engine Mounts offered by PYI, Inc.  As none of the existing 
> engine mount bolts met my standards ( a combo of lag and stripped threaded 
> bolts) the job became slightly more complex than imagined at the start.
> 
> In 1970 Bruckmann's was laminating a steel plate on top of a wood base to 
> build up the engine support frames.  Once I understood what was under all the 
> fiberglass and paint I decided to drill and tap new bolt holes, using the 
> older ones if possible.
> 
> The results when finished were worth the effort.  I did re-align the 
> engine/reduction gear to the prop shaft.  The engine vibration transmitted 
> through the hull was significantly reduced with the added benefit of being 
> confident that the engine would stay put if the boat broached or was knocked 
> down in a heavy sea.
> 
> One of the least expensive tools to purchase that may help is a small scissor 
> jack to be used in holding the engine in place while changing the mounts. Let 
> me know if you want more info on how I approached the process, but there is 
> much already written about the topic available.
> 
> Martin
> Calypso
> 1970 C&C 43
> Seattle
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